PC Builds
Ultimate Guide to Building a Gaming PC in 2025
Building your own gaming PC can be incredibly rewarding. In 2025, the hardware landscape offers more performance and value than ever, but choosing the right components can be daunting. Fear not, in this guide, I’ll walk you through component selection for every budget (entry-level, mid-range, and high-end), compare the latest CPUs, GPUs, RAM, storage, motherboards, PSUs, and cooling solutions, and provide step-by-step guidance for assembling your PC. By the end, you’ll be ready to build a rig that fits your budget and gaming ambitions.
• Core Count & Architecture: Modern Intel chips use a hybrid design with Performance-cores (P-cores) and Efficient-cores (E-cores). For example, the Intel Core i5-13400F has 6 P-cores 4 E-cores (10 cores total, 16 threads) and boosts up to 4.6 GHz. This gives it strong gaming performance on the P-cores and decent multithreaded performance using all cores, impressive for a $200 CPU. In fact, the 13th-gen i5 added more E-cores over 12th-gen, making it a “plucky” budget chip that can handle gaming and light productivity smoothly. AMD’s CPUs stick to high-performance cores only (no separate efficiency cores) but often include Simultaneous Multithreading (SMT) to double the thread count. For instance, the AMD Ryzen 5 7600 launched at a $229 MSRP with 6 cores / 12 threads, base clock 3.8 GHz and boost up to 5.1 GHz. Both Intel and AMD mid-range CPUs now easily hit 5 GHz turbo frequencies out of the box.
• Gaming Performance: As of 2025, AMD’s 3D V-Cache processors are king of gaming performance. Chips like the Ryzen 7 7800X3D (Zen 4) and the new Ryzen 7 9800X3D (Zen 5) use extra L3 cache to boost game frame rates. The Ryzen 7 9800X3D, with 8 cores/16 threads and a massive 96 MB L3 cache, is “demonstrably quicker in gaming than any other CPU around today,” even beating higher-core-count rivals. That cache lets it outrun Intel’s flagship Core i9 in many games. Speaking of Intel, the Core i9-14900K (24 cores: 8P 16E) is Intel’s fastest gaming chip, but due to its brute-force approach (high clock speeds, lots of cores), it runs hot and power-hungry.
In pure gaming, a Ryzen 7 7800X3D can actually edge out a 14900K by 5% on average, despite the Intel chip’s higher core count. In CPU-bound titles like Warhammer 3 or F1 2023, the extra cache on the Ryzen yields better FPS. On the other hand, the Core i9’s 24 cores give it a huge advantage in heavy multitasking or content creation, it can be nearly 2 faster in multithreaded benchmarks (Intel’s 14900K scored 98% higher in Cinebench multi-core than a 7800X3D). Bottom line: For pure gaming, a mid-range 8-core Ryzen 3D chip is often the sweet spot, while Intel’s high-core-count CPUs excel at streaming, video editing, and other tasks alongside gaming.
• Platform and Longevity: AMD’s AM5 platform (for Ryzen 7000/8000 series) uses DDR5 memory and is expected to support new CPU generations through at least 2025, providing an upgrade path. For example, a Ryzen 7 7700X on AM5 today could be upgraded to a future Ryzen 9000-series CPU without changing your motherboard or RAM. Intel’s LGA1700 platform (12th/13th-gen) is at its end, the 14th-gen refresh still used it, but the next-gen (Arrow Lake) will move to a new socket, meaning less forward compatibility. Keep this in mind if you want to upgrade CPUs down the road.
• Price and Value: You don’t need to spend a fortune on a CPU for gaming. $200,$300 CPUs like Intel’s Core i5-13400F or Core i5-13600K, and AMD’s Ryzen 5 7600 or Ryzen 7 7700X, already deliver high FPS in games. Higher-end chips mainly help with specialized workloads or pushing absolutely every frame possible at low resolution. Also note that Intel’s 14th-gen chips were mostly minor tweaks, if a 13th-gen model is cheaper, go for it as performance is virtually the same . For instance, a Core i5-13400F performs almost identically to a hypothetical “14400F”, so paying extra for the newer name isn’t worthwhile.
In summary, for budget builds (6-core CPUs) and mid-range (8- to 10-core CPUs), you have great options from both brands. For high-end, decide if you want the absolute fastest gaming chip (AMD X3D) or a do-it-all powerhouse (Intel i9 or Ryzen 9). Either way, pair the CPU with a cooler and motherboard that can support its power needs (more on that soon).
• Entry-Level & 1080p Gaming: For 1080p resolution, AMD’s Radeon RX 7600 (8GB) and Nvidia’s GeForce RTX 4060 (8GB) are popular budget choices. The RX 7600, launched at $269, is targeted at mainstream 1080p gamers. It’s a “stellar 1080p performer”, easily hitting 60 FPS in nearly every game at high settings, and very high frame rates in esports titles. This card outpaces last-gen midrange cards like the RX 6600 and trades blows with Nvidia’s RTX 3060. Its main limitation is the 8 GB VRAM: 8 GB is fine for today’s 1080p games, but it could become a bottleneck in a couple of years for the most demanding new titles.
Nvidia’s RTX 4060 offers similar 1080p performance, with the benefit of DLSS upscaling and better ray tracing, but at a slightly higher price ($299). At this budget, you’ll generally get the best bang-for-buck with AMD’s GPUs or even Intel’s Arc GPUs (like the Arc A750) if on sale, since Nvidia tends to charge a premium. Expectations: A $250,$300 GPU in 2025 can comfortably handle 1080p/60fps in AAA games (often much higher), or 1080p 144Hz in competitive titles.
• Mid-Range & 1440p Gaming: In the mid-range ($500,$800 GPUs), you can target high-refresh-rate 1440p or entry-level 4K gaming. Notable contenders are Nvidia’s RTX 4070 (12GB) and RTX 4070 Ti (12GB), and AMD’s RX 7800 XT (16GB) and RX 7900 XT (20GB). AMD generally offers more VRAM and raw rasterization performance for the money, while Nvidia offers better ray tracing performance and proprietary features like DLSS 3 frame generation. For example, the Radeon RX 7800 XT 16GB often outperforms the RTX 4070 in traditional rendering, one benchmark showed the 7800 XT 9,10% higher FPS than the RTX 4070 at 4K in a rasterized game.
In some games (like Starfield), the 7800 XT can be 20% faster than a 4070 for about the same price. On the flip side, the RTX 4070’s Ada Lovelace architecture is more efficient and excels at ray-traced gaming; Nvidia’s DLSS technology can significantly boost performance with minimal quality loss, giving the 4070 an edge in supported games. Both the 4070 and 7800 XT are great 1440p cards, the 7800 XT’s extra 4GB of VRAM might offer more longevity, whereas the 4070’s superior DLSS 3 could keep frames smoother in cutting-edge titles.
• Availability note: Some mid-tier GPUs saw supply issues early on, the RTX 4060 Ti 16GB was scarce and overpriced, and even the RTX 4070 sometimes sold above MSRP. AMD’s cards, like the RX 7700 XT (12GB), tend to be easier to find at retail price. In fact, the RX 7700 XT is close in performance to the higher-end 7800 XT, so it can be a decent value option if you need to save a bit. Just remember that jumping up one tier (to a 7800 XT or RTX 4070) can yield a notable performance boost if your budget allows.
• High-End & 4K Gaming: At the top of the stack, we have behemoths like the Nvidia RTX 4090 (24GB) and AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX (24GB), and Nvidia’s slightly cut-down RTX 4080 (16GB). These cards are ideal for 4K ultra gaming, high-refresh 1440p, and VR. The RTX 4090 is the reigning performance champion, it’s roughly 30% faster than AMD’s best (RX 7900 XTX) at 4K in rasterized performance, and its ray tracing prowess is in a class of its own (in heavy ray tracing scenarios, a 4090 can be nearly 80,90% faster than a 7900 XTX).
However, it comes at an extreme price ($1600). AMD’s RX 7900 XTX, on the other hand, offers about 85,90% of the 4090’s gaming performance for roughly half the price, making it a strong contender for high-end builds where value is still a consideration. The 7900 XTX generally matches or beats Nvidia’s RTX 4080 in games, especially at 4K, in many titles it’s 10% faster than the 4080, while costing several hundred dollars less. The trade-off is weaker ray tracing performance and the lack of DLSS (though AMD’s open-source FSR 2/3 is supported in many games as an alternative upscaling tech).
• Ultra-High-End (Multi-GPU?): It’s worth noting that multi-GPU (SLI/CrossFire) setups have fallen out of favor. Virtually no modern games support multi-GPU, and both Nvidia and AMD have deprecated this in drivers. So for a $3000 budget, you’re better off getting the single most powerful GPU you can (e.g., one RTX 4090) rather than two lower cards. One 4090 will outperform two lesser cards in almost all games due to lack of SLI support, not to mention avoiding the heat and power complications.
• VRAM and Future-Proofing: VRAM (video memory) is a hot topic. New games in 2025 are gobbling more VRAM, especially at high resolutions or with extreme texture packs. Cards like the RTX 4060 Ti 8GB have seen criticism for limited VRAM causing texture swapping or stutters in certain games. As a rule of thumb, 8GB is fine for 1080p now, 12,16GB is ideal for 1440p, and 16GB is recommended for 4K to be safe for the next few years. All current AMD high-end cards have 16GB or more, whereas Nvidia tends to have 10,12GB on midrange (4070 has 12, 4070 Ti 12, 4080 16, 4090 24). If you plan to mod games or play VR titles, err on the side of more VRAM.
In summary, choose your GPU based on the resolution and frame rate you want. For 1080p@60-144Hz, a $300 card (RX 7600 / RTX 4060) is great. For 1440p@144Hz or 4K@60Hz, look at $500,$800 cards (RTX 4070/Ti, RX 7800 XT, 7900 XT). For 4K@120Hz or elite performance, the $1000 range (RTX 4080, 4090; RX 7900 XTX) is where to aim. Keep in mind features and ecosystem, if you value ray tracing and DLSS 3, Nvidia might be worth the premium; if you want the best raw performance per dollar and extra VRAM, AMD is very appealing.
• DDR5 vs DDR4: DDR5 launched in late 2021 and initially was very expensive with only marginal gaming benefit. Now in 2025, DDR5 prices have dropped and speeds have increased. High-end DDR5 kits (6000 MT/s) can noticeably improve minimum FPS in CPU-bound games, especially on Ryzen 7000 series due to Infinity Fabric coupling. However, DDR4 is extremely cheap now, you can get 16GB of DDR4 for under $40. For a budget builder, sticking with DDR4 (and an older platform that supports it) can save a lot of money with minimal impact on game performance . In fact, one reason our entry-level build later uses Intel 13th-gen is because it lets us use cheap DDR4 memory, freeing up budget for a better GPU. If you go with AMD’s AM5 or Intel’s newer platform that requires DDR5, expect to spend a bit more on RAM, but you’ll get the benefits of the new tech.
• Capacity, 16GB, 32GB, or more?: Until recently, 16GB (28GB) was the de facto standard for gaming PCs. In 2025, 16GB is the minimum for a new build, and 32GB is the new sweet spot for mid-range and high-end systems. Games are gradually using more memory, and if you multi-task (stream, have Discord, Chrome, etc. open while gaming), 32GB ensures you won’t hit a memory wall. Many PC enthusiasts now consider 32GB the “standard” for builds over $1500. If you’re strictly on a tight budget or only play less demanding titles, 16GB will still do the job today, most games won’t require more, though a few very heavy titles can use 12-15GB.
For ultra-high-end or prosumer builds (e.g., $3000 builds that might also do content creation), 64GB could be considered, but it’s overkill for gaming alone. The takeaway: go with 28GB (16GB total) for entry-level, and 216GB (32GB total) for anything mid-range or above. Make sure to get its rated XMP/EXPO profile speed, e.g. DDR5-6000 or DDR4-3200, and enable that in BIOS to get full performance.
• Latency and Speed: DDR5 kits have higher latency numbers than DDR4 (CL30 vs CL16, etc.), but their higher frequency usually makes up for it. For AMD Ryzen systems, look for DDR5 in the 5600,6000 MT/s range, which is often cited as the sweet spot for Zen 4. For Intel, DDR5 speed is a bit less critical for gaming, but faster RAM can still help in some scenarios. If using DDR4 on a budget, a dual-channel 3200 MT/s kit with low CAS (CL16) is ideal and dirt cheap nowadays.
• NVMe SSDs (PCIe 4.0 vs 5.0): Most new motherboards support PCIe 4.0 SSDs, and the latest support PCIe 5.0 SSDs with even higher theoretical speeds. In practice, a good PCIe 4.0 NVMe (like a WD Black SN770 or Samsung 980 Pro) with 5,000,7,000 MB/s read speeds will load games in just a few seconds. PCIe 5.0 drives can hit 10,000 MB/s, but as of 2025 they are expensive and tend to run hot (often requiring heatsinks).
For gaming, the real-world difference between Gen4 and Gen5 SSDs is negligible , you might shave a second or two off a load screen at best . If budget is a concern, a Gen3 NVMe or SATA SSD can still do the job (they’ll just be a bit slower in loading large levels). But with 1TB Gen4 NVMe drives often around $60 now, it’s a no-brainer to use them. We recommend at least a 1 TB NVMe SSD for your OS and games. Modern games are huge (100GB isn’t uncommon), so 500GB can feel cramped quickly. If you have a large library, consider 2 TB. You can always add a secondary drive later if needed.
• HDDs for Bulk Storage: Hard drives (HDDs) are now mostly relegated to mass storage of media, backups, or an overflowing game library where absolute speed isn’t crucial. They are much slower and not ideal for games (some new games won’t even run well from an HDD due to asset streaming requirements). That said, if you have a lot of older or less-played games, you could use a 2,4 TB HDD in addition to your SSD. Our mid-range build example includes an optional 2TB hard drive for extra storage of videos, etc. But if budget allows, you might opt for an SATA SSD or a second NVMe instead for those large files, for the sake of silence and speed.
• Key Specs: Look at capacity and read/write speeds. Most NVMe drives list sequential read speeds; anything above 3,000 MB/s is fine for gaming, which basically means any PCIe 3.0 x4 or better. Also consider the DRAM cache (DRAM-less drives are okay for gaming but might slow down during heavy sustained writes) and endurance (TBW) if you plan to keep the drive a long time. Many mid-range NVMe SSDs (like Crucial P5 Plus, SK Hynix Platinum, etc.) offer a great balance of performance and price.
• Chipsets (Intel): Current Intel 12th/13th/14th-gen CPUs use LGA1700 socket, typically on 600-series or 700-series chipsets. Common options: B660/B760 (mid-range chipset) and Z690/Z790 (high-end chipset). The B-series boards are cheaper and lack CPU overclocking support (which only matters if you have a “K” CPU you wanted to overclock). They usually have fewer USB ports, PCIe lanes, and slightly simpler voltage regulator modules (VRMs), but they are perfectly capable for builds that run at stock settings. The Z-series boards allow overclocking and tend to offer more of everything (USB/Thunderbolt ports, additional M.2 slots, better audio, etc.). For example, an Intel B660 board might have 2 M.2 slots and 6 USB ports, whereas a Z690 could have 4 M.2 slots and 10 USB ports, Wi-Fi, etc. If you’re not overclocking, a good B760 board can save money while providing all needed features.
• Chipsets (AMD): AMD’s AM5 platform has X670(X) and B650(E) chipsets (with E variants offering more PCIe 5.0 lanes). Like Intel, the X series is higher-end (more ports, usually better VRM for overclocking) while B series is mid-range. For instance, B650 boards offer up to 36 PCIe lanes and roughly half the USB/SATA count of an X670 board. In practice, 36 lanes is plenty for one GPU and a few SSDs. Unless you need lots of expansion cards or extra I/O, B650 covers most gaming builds well. X670 boards might add things like a second PCIe 5.0 M.2 slot, more high-speed USB (20 Gbps) ports, etc. One specific note: all AM5 boards require DDR5 memory (DDR4 is not supported on Ryzen 7000), so factor that into your budget.
• Form Factor: ATX is the standard desktop motherboard size and will fit in any mid-tower or larger case. There are also Micro-ATX (mATX, slightly smaller, usually 2 PCIe slots instead of 3-4) and Mini-ITX (much smaller, for compact builds) boards. Smaller boards often have to sacrifice some slots or features due to size, and they can be a bit fiddlier to build with. All our example builds assume ATX or mATX for simplicity and airflow, but if you want a very small LAN-party PC, Mini-ITX is an option (just note ITX boards and cases tend to cost more).
• Features to look for: VRM quality (especially for high CPU power draw , ensures stable power delivery), number of M.2 SSD slots, onboard Wi-Fi/BT (if you need wireless networking, many B650/B760 boards now include Wi-Fi 6), USB port count and type (USB-C front panel header if your case has a Type-C port, for example), and audio codec quality (if you use analog headphones/speakers). Also check the rear I/O, make sure it has enough USB ports for your peripherals. Nowadays, even budget boards often come with a pre-installed I/O shield and convenient features like BIOS flashback (to update BIOS without a CPU, helpful for future CPU upgrades).
• Upgrade Path and Compatibility: If you get an AMD B650 board now for a Ryzen 5 7600, you could potentially upgrade to a Ryzen 9 8xxx or 9xxx later on the same board. Likewise, an Intel B760 board with a Core i5-13400F could (with a BIOS update) support an i7-13700K or i9-13900K if you decided to upgrade , but note that going from a non-overclockable board to a K CPU means you still can’t overclock the K chip’s cores (though it would still run at its high boost clocks). Ensure your board’s power delivery and cooling can handle a higher-tier CPU if you plan to upgrade to one; mid-range boards can handle mid-range CPUs easily, but putting a 253W Core i9-14900K on a very cheap board might throttle under full load.
In general, don’t overspend on the motherboard, get one that meets your needs. A $150 board and a $250 board often perform identically in gaming; the differences lie in extra features and robustness. Unless you need the extras, that money often yields more FPS if put into a better GPU instead.
• Wattage: The required wattage depends on your GPU and CPU. Entry-level builds with a single mid-range GPU and CPU typically draw 300,400W under load, so a quality 550W or 600W PSU is sufficient. Our budget build uses a 650W unit to have ample headroom. Mid-range systems (RTX 4070/4080 or RX 7800 XT/7900 XT class with higher-end CPUs) can draw 500,600W, so we recommend 750W to 850W to be safe. High-end rigs (RTX 4090 Core i9, etc.) might draw 700,800W at peak, so a 1000W PSU is advised. It’s wise to have some headroom (you don’t want to run the PSU at 100% all the time). Also, PSUs are most efficient at 50% load. For instance, if your system typically draws 500W while gaming, an 850W Gold PSU will run cool and efficient.
• Efficiency Rating: You’ve likely seen 80 Plus certifications: Bronze, Gold, Platinum, etc. These indicate efficiency (and loosely quality). At a minimum, get an 80 Bronze unit for budget builds, though 80 Gold units have become very affordable and typically use better components. In our builds, we spec Bronze for the entry rig and Gold for mid-range, with Platinum in the high-end. Higher efficiency means less waste heat and slightly lower electricity usage.
• Quality and Protections: Not all PSUs are equal even if wattage is same. Stick to reputable brands/models (Corsair, Seasonic, EVGA, SilverStone, etc. have solid options). Look for features like OVP/UVP (over/under-voltage protection), OCP (over-current), SCP (short-circuit), most quality PSUs have these. Avoid no-name “600W for $20” units; they rarely deliver their labeled power and can fail disastrously. A good PSU will last you many years and possibly through multiple builds.
• Connectors (PCIe 5.0 / 12VHPWR): Newer high-end GPUs (RTX 40-series) use the 124 pin 12VHPWR connector (also called PCIe 5.0 connector). Many new PSUs labeled “ATX 3.0” include this cable natively. If your PSU doesn’t have it, GPUs like the RTX 4090 will include adapter cables that convert multiple 8-pin PCIe plugs to the single 12VHPWR. It’s generally recommended to use a PSU that has the proper connector if possible, for the best reliability with power spikes. Also ensure the PSU has enough PCIe 8-pin cables for your GPU (e.g., an RTX 3080 uses two 8-pin cables). Most modular PSUs in the 600W range will provide plenty.
• Modular vs Non-Modular: Modular PSUs let you detach unused cables for a cleaner build. Non-modular are cheaper but have all cables permanently attached (you’ll have to hide the extras in the case). Semi-modular is a mix (fixed main cables, the rest removable). It’s mostly a cable management preference; modular is nice if budget allows.
• CPU Coolers (Air vs Liquid): Every CPU needs a cooler. Some CPUs come with a stock cooler in the box (e.g., AMD’s Ryzen 5 7600 includes a Wraith Stealth cooler). Stock coolers are usually okay for stock speeds, they are designed to dissipate the CPU’s TDP under normal conditions. In entry-level builds, using the included cooler is a sensible way to save money . For instance, the Ryzen 5’s Wraith cooler can handle its 65W TDP, albeit running a bit warm (90C under load is normal for these CPUs). Aftermarket air coolers ($30-$50 tower coolers) will usually cool better and quieter. A popular choice is the Thermalright Peerless Assassin or similar dual-fan tower, which offers near high-end performance for around $35.
Liquid all-in-one (AIO) coolers have become common as well, especially in mid/high builds. A 240mm or 360mm AIO can tame even power-hungry CPUs. For example, Intel’s Core i9-14900K has a 253W turbo power rating and can run hot (easily hitting 90,100C under full load). A strong 360mm AIO or custom liquid loop is recommended for such a chip. On the other hand, AMD’s efficiency-focused chips like the 7800X3D (120W) run cooler and can be managed with a mid-range air cooler or a 240mm AIO without issue. When choosing between air and liquid: Air coolers are cheaper and have less potential failure points (a fan is easier to replace than a pump), while AIO liquid coolers can offer lower temps on high wattage CPUs and reduce clutter around the CPU socket (useful in builds with tall RAM or limited space).
• Case Airflow: Your case and fan setup also matter. A good gaming case in 2025 should have at least two or three 120mm or 140mm fans for airflow. Typically, you’d have intake fans at front/bottom pulling cool air in, and exhaust fans at top/rear pushing hot air out. Many cases come with fans pre-installed (though often just basic ones). For our builds, we assume a standard ATX case with decent airflow (mesh front or vents). If you choose a flashy case with a tempered glass front, be mindful that airflow could be restricted, you might need to adjust fan configuration. When installing your components, ensure your GPU has breathing room (most gaming GPUs are 2-3 slots thick; make sure your case can accommodate the length and that there’s space for air to circulate around it). Likewise, manage cables so they don’t obstruct fans. High-end GPUs like the RTX 4090 will dump a lot of heat into the case; having a couple of top exhaust fans helps expel that heat quickly.
• Noise Considerations: Larger fans (140mm) can move the same air at lower RPM, hence quieter. Quality fans or coolers can significantly reduce noise while keeping temps low. If you want a silent build, consider aftermarket case fans or dampened case designs. Conversely, small form factor builds often have to accept a bit more noise due to smaller, faster-spinning fans.
• Thermal Paste: Don’t forget to apply thermal paste (a pea-sized dot in the center of the CPU is a common method) if your cooler doesn’t have it pre-applied. Most aftermarket coolers include paste or have pre-applied compound on the heatsink base.
In summary, match your cooler to your CPU’s needs: use stock or a basic air cooler for lower-TDP chips and budget builds, and invest in robust cooling (tower air cooler or AIO) for higher TDP chips to avoid throttling. Maintain good case airflow with properly placed fans. This will keep your system running at peak performance and help components like the CPU and GPU boost to their highest clocks consistently.
• Entry-Level (Under $1,000): Aimed at 1080p gaming.
• Mid-Range ($1,500,$2,000): Aimed at high-settings 1440p (and some 4K).
• High-End ($3,000): A no-compromise 4K gaming beast.
Each section will include a recommended parts list and a step-by-step assembly guide.
Recommended Components (Entry-Level)
• CPU: Intel Core i5-13400F (10-core, 16-thread, up to 4.6 GHz), A fantastic budget gaming CPU. With 6 performance cores and 4 efficiency cores, it offers snappy gaming performance and can handle streaming or light content creation in a pinch. We choose Intel here because this 13th-gen chip allows use of cheaper DDR4 memory, helping keep the total cost down. (Approx. $180,$200)
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7600 8GB , This card delivers excellent 1080p performance for the price. It’s “easily capable of high framerates in eSports titles and maintaining 60 fps at 1080p in almost every game.” With 8GB VRAM and modern RDNA3 architecture, it outperforms last-gen cards in its class and trades blows with the pricier Nvidia RTX 3060. (Approx. $250,$280) Alternate: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4060 8GB (approximately $300) , similar 1080p performance, with DLSS and better ray tracing. If you value those features and can spend a bit more, the RTX 4060 is an option, though in pure performance the RX 7600 is very close.
• Motherboard: ASRock B660M Pro RS (Intel B660, LGA1700, mATX), A budget-friendly board that supports 12th/13th-gen Intel CPUs and DDR4 RAM. It has all the essentials: 2 M.2 NVMe slots, 4 DDR4 slots, and decent audio/VRM for a locked i5. Since the i5-13400F isn’t overclockable, a B660 is perfect. (Approx. $100)
• RAM: 16 GB (28 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16, Fast enough for any game, and 16GB capacity will handle modern titles (most games use well under 16GB). We’re using DDR4 here because it’s much cheaper than DDR5 for similar performance. (Approx. $30,$40 for a quality kit) Note: If you find a good deal on a bundle with DDR5 (say you went with an i5-13500 on a B760 DDR5 board), ensure to get at least 16GB DDR5-5600. But that route likely adds cost without a big FPS gain, so DDR4 is the value play.
• SSD: 1 TB NVMe M.2 SSD (PCIe 4.0), For example, a WD Black SN770 1TB NVMe. This gives fast boot times and game load times. 1TB is a good starting point; you can install 10,20 large games. The SN770 is rated up to 5,150 MB/s reads which is plenty. (Approx. $60) Alternate: If an NVMe slot is used by a smaller SSD or you want more space cheaply, you could add a 1TB SATA SSD or even a HDD for older games/media.
• PSU: Corsair RM650 650W 80 Bronze (or Gold), A 650W reputable power supply gives ample headroom for this build, which will draw 300W or so at full tilt. The Corsair RM series is a high-quality unit. 650W also leaves room if you upgrade to a more power-hungry GPU later. (Approx. $80) Note: You could go lower (500W,550W) if that’s significantly cheaper, but often a bit more wattage at Bronze/Gold isn’t much extra cost and provides flexibility.
• Case: DIYPC or Cooler Master mid-tower (with 2,3 included fans) , Cases are subjective in style, but look for an ATX mid-tower with good airflow (mesh front or side vents). For example, an Aerocool Zauron is an affordable case that comes with fans. Ensure it fits your GPU length (the RX 7600 cards are generally compact anyway) and has front panel USB, etc. (Approx. $50,$70)
This sample configuration comes out to roughly $750,$800 in total , often leaving room in the $1000 budget for peripherals or an upgrade (you could bump the GPU to an RX 6650 XT 8GB or RTX 3060 12GB if you find a sale, or simply pocket the savings). It’s a balanced build: the CPU and GPU are well-matched, and there’s a clear upgrade path (you could later drop in an i7-13700 or a stronger GPU without changing much else).
Step-by-Step Assembly (Entry-Level PC)
Now, let’s build this PC! Even if it’s your first time, just go slow and follow these steps. Remember to ground yourself before handling components, touch an unpainted metal part of the case or PSU to discharge static electricity (avoid building on carpet). Keep your components on a table or desk, and have a Phillips screwdriver handy.
1. Prepare the Case: Unscrew and remove the side panels of your case. If your case came with any packing foam or cardboard inside, take that out. Ensure the motherboard standoffs (small brass spacers) are installed in the motherboard tray in positions corresponding to an mATX/ATX board (our ASRock B660M is mATX, so typically 6 standoffs). Most cases have these pre-installed. Also, if your motherboard has a separate I/O shield (a thin metal plate for the rear ports), snap it into the case’s rear I/O cutout from the inside before installing the board.
2. Install the CPU onto the Motherboard: Place the motherboard on a flat surface (on top of its cardboard box or an anti-static mat). For Intel LGA1700 sockets, push the lever down and away to open the socket cover. Carefully insert the Core i5-13400F CPU: align the notches on the CPU with the socket (and the gold triangle on the CPU corner with the triangle marking on the socket). Gently drop it in place , do not force it. Close the socket latch/lever; it may require a bit of pressure. The black plastic cover will pop off, that’s normal. (If using an AMD AM5 CPU in a different build, the process is slightly different: you’d lift the lever, drop the CPU in the PGA socket holes, etc., but for our Intel CPU it’s an LGA mechanism.)
3. Install the CPU Cooler: Since the i5-13400F doesn’t include a stock cooler, we’ll assume using an affordable aftermarket air cooler or an Intel stock cooler from another model. In our example, let’s say we have a basic Laminar RM1 stock cooler (the kind Intel includes with non-K i5s) . If your cooler has pre-applied thermal paste, great, if not, apply a pea-sized dot of thermal paste on the center of the CPU heat-spreader. For the Intel push-pin cooler, orient it so that the pins line up with the holes around the socket. Press down each pin diagonally opposite in pairs until they click. Verify all four push-pins are through the board and locked. (For other air coolers, you might have a mounting bracket , consult the manual. Generally, screw down the heatsink evenly onto the CPU with paste in between.) Tip: Plug the cooler’s fan cable into the CPU_FAN header on the motherboard (usually near the CPU socket). It’s a small 4-pin header. Without doing this, the system will warn of no CPU fan.
4. Install Memory (RAM): Locate the DIMM slots on the motherboard. For dual-channel, use the slots as indicated in the motherboard manual (often if there are 4 slots, and you have 2 sticks, you use slot A2 and B2 which are the second and fourth slots from the CPU). Open the retention clips on those slots. Take your 28GB DDR4 DIMMs and firmly press each into the slot until the clip snaps back up, securing the RAM. They only fit one way (match the notch).
5. Install M.2 SSD: Find the M.2 slot on the board (most likely just below the CPU area). Unscrew the tiny M.2 screw if it’s there. Insert the NVMe SSD at a 30-degree angle into the slot (keyed notch aligns with the socket). Push it in until it’s fully seated. Then screw it down using the tiny screw to secure the drive flat to the board. Be gentle and don’t over-tighten (the screws are tiny).
6. Mount the Motherboard in the Case: Double-check that the case standoffs align with the board’s mounting holes. Gently lower the motherboard into the case, guiding the rear ports through the I/O shield cutout. Line up the screw holes with standoffs. Using the screws provided with your case, screw the board down at all corners and along the edges (for mATX, usually 6 screws). Don’t over-tighten; just snug them.
7. Install the Power Supply: If modular, attach the necessary cables first: for this build you’ll need the 24-pin ATX cable, an 8-pin EPS cable (CPU power), and a couple of PCIe 8-pin cables (actually for the RX 7600, only a single 8-pin PCIe power is needed). Mount the PSU in the case’s PSU bay, typically at the bottom rear. Orient the PSU so its fan faces out through a vent (downward if your case has a bottom filter vent). Secure it with 4 screws on the back.
8. Connect Power Cables (Motherboard and CPU): Plug the 24-pin main power cable from the PSU into the motherboard’s 24-pin socket (usually on the right-hand side of the board). It’s keyed and will click in. Then plug the 8-pin EPS cable (might be 44 pin) into the motherboard’s CPU power header near the top-left of the board. Ensure it clicks in. These two connections feed power to the board and CPU.
9. Install the Graphics Card: Remove the appropriate expansion slot covers on the case (for the slot you’ll use , typically the top PCIe x16 slot). The RX 7600 is a smaller card; it will use maybe 2 slots width. Insert the GPU into the top PCIe x16 slot on the motherboard (push aside any latch if present). Press firmly until it’s fully seated and the slot’s latch clicks onto the GPU. Secure the GPU’s bracket to the case with screws where the slot covers were removed.
10. Connect GPU Power: Attach a PSU PCIe 8-pin power connector to the graphics card’s power port (the RX 7600 reference needs one 8-pin). Make sure it’s fully seated. For cards requiring two 8-pins (just an FYI for others), you’d connect both.
11. Front Panel Connections: This is fiddly but important. Locate the case’s front panel connector wires (power switch, reset switch, power LED, HDD LED, etc.). Consult your motherboard manual or look closely at the markings on the board’s front panel header (usually bottom-right corner). Plug in the power switch cable to the PWR pins, reset to RESET pins, and LED cables to their /, pins (the tiny labels on the cables and board help; note that LED connectors are polarized, while switches are not). Also connect front panel USB ports (a cable likely goes to a USB3 header on the board , a big 20-pin connector) and front audio (usually a HD_AUDIO 9-pin header on bottom left of board).
12. Case Fans and Other Connections: Connect your case’s fans to the motherboard fan headers or to a fan hub. Typically, there will be SYS_FAN or CHA_FAN headers. If the fans use 3-pin connectors, connect to 4-pin headers (they will work, possibly at fixed speed unless your board offers DC control). If any front panel USB-C, plug that cable in as well (some boards have a USB-C header).
13. Double-Check Everything: At this point, verify all major connections: 24-pin ATX, 8-pin CPU power, CPU fan cable, GPU seated and powered, front panel connectors, RAM seated, etc. Also, tidy up cables , use zip ties to bundle excess and keep them out of fans. Ensure no loose screws or wires are left inside the case.
14. Power On Test: Moment of truth, attach your monitor to the GPU and your keyboard, then plug the PSU into the wall and flip the PSU’s rocker switch to “I” (on). Press the case power button. The system should spring to life: fans spinning, hopefully a POST (power-on self test) beep or directly showing the BIOS logo on screen. If it doesn’t power on, turn off and re-check cables (especially the front panel power switch header and PSU connections). If it powers on but no display, make sure the monitor is on the GPU’s output (not the motherboard’s video port, since the 13400F has no iGPU). Also check RAM seating if there’s no POST.
15. BIOS Settings: Once you get into the BIOS (tap the Delete key during boot typically), ensure the RAM is running at its XMP profile (enable XMP for DDR4-3200 to get out of default 2133 MT/s). Also check that your storage is recognized. You can set the boot order or just proceed to booting installation media.
16. Install Your OS: Insert a USB drive with Windows 11 (or Linux, etc.) and install the operating system. Once in Windows, install the latest GPU drivers (from AMD’s site for the RX 7600), the motherboard chipset drivers, and any other device drivers. With that, you’re all set to start gaming!
This entry-level PC should now be running smoothly. You’ll be able to enjoy games like Cyberpunk 2077 at 1080p on high settings, or lighter games like CS:GO, Rocket League, Fortnite at well over 100 fps. And thanks to the balanced CPU/GPU combo, neither component will bottleneck the other significantly, a true testament to getting the most gaming performance per dollar.
What to Expect: Flawless 1440p gaming at ultra settings, often 100 fps depending on the title, and very solid 4K performance (60 fps at high settings in most games). Also streaming and multitasking while gaming will be smoother, thanks to a stronger CPU and more RAM. This build is also more “future-proof”, it has more headroom for upcoming games.
Recommended Components (Mid-Range)
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X (8 cores, 16 threads, up to 5.4 GHz boost), A powerful processor that offers an excellent balance for gaming and productivity. Its 8 Zen 4 cores provide plenty of multithreaded muscle, and it excels in gaming. Importantly, it’s on the AM5 platform, which means you have an upgrade path to future Ryzen CPUs without changing your motherboard or RAM . (Approx. $300) Alternate: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D ($450), If gaming is absolutely the priority, the 7800X3D’s extra cache makes it one of the fastest gaming CPUs on the market, beating even many 12-16 core CPUs in games. It costs more, though, and runs a bit lower clocks for non-gaming tasks. Another option in this price bracket is the Intel Core i5-13600K (14-core hybrid, $320) which offers great performance as well , but we’re leaning AMD here for platform longevity and cooler operation (Zen 4 is quite efficient).
• GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12GB, This GPU can crush 1440p gaming. It’s significantly more powerful than the RTX 4070 and competes closely with AMD’s RX 7900 XT. With 12GB GDDR6X, it handles high-resolution textures well. The RTX 4070 Ti excels at 1440p high refresh and is very capable at 4K gaming too (often 80fps in many games at high settings). Additionally, you get Nvidia’s features: DLSS 3 frame generation can dramatically boost frame rates in supported games, and its ray tracing performance is strong. (Approx. $800) Alternate: AMD Radeon RX 7800 XT 16GB ($500) or Radeon RX 7900 XT 20GB ($800), These are AMD’s mid/high cards. The 7800 XT offers tremendous value, often trading blows with the RTX 4070 (non-Ti) and even approaching 4070 Ti in some titles. At 1440p, it’s a monster for the price, sometimes within 5-10% of the 4070 in performance. The 7900 XT is more directly comparable to the 4070 Ti and tends to win in raw rasterized performance, especially given its extra 8GB of VRAM, though without DLSS/Frame Generation it relies on raw horsepower. If you favor longevity and higher VRAM, the 7900 XT is a great pick in this budget. If you favor ray tracing and DLSS, stick with the 4070 Ti. (Either choice will do great; we’ll proceed assuming the 4070 Ti for this build, as an example.)
• Motherboard: MSI B650 Tomahawk WiFi (AM5), A solid B650 chipset ATX board for the Ryzen 7. It supports DDR5, has robust power delivery (more than enough for an 8-core or even 16-core upgrade later), built-in Wi-Fi 6, and multiple M.2 slots (often 3 on these boards). B650 gives you all the essentials without the higher cost of X670. (Approx. $200) Features: This board will have PCIe 5.0 support at least on one M.2 slot for future SSDs, plenty of USB (including USB-C), and good audio. We don’t need X670 because we’re not running extreme multi-GPU or tons of expansion cards , a mid-range board strikes the best value-performance here.
• RAM: 32 GB (216 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 (EXPO or XMP kit) , We’re going with 32GB to comfortably handle any current and upcoming games, and to allow background applications with no worries. DDR5-6000 is a sweet spot for Ryzen 7000 CPUs, as it matches well with the Infinity Fabric (often the EXPO DDR5-6000 CL30 kits perform excellently on AM5). This ensures optimal performance. (Approx. $120,$150 for a quality 32GB kit)
• SSD: 1 TB NVMe SSD (PCIe 4.0) 2 TB HDD, For example, a Lexar NM790 1TB NVMe for boot/game drive and a secondary 2TB 7200rpm hard drive for mass storage (if you have lots of media or less frequently played games). The Lexar NM790 is a fast Gen4 drive (7400 MB/s reads) at a great price. Using a combo of SSD HDD gives you speed where needed and space where needed. If you prefer all solid-state, you could instead get a 2TB NVMe and skip the HDD (that might add $80). (Approx. $70 for 1TB NVMe, $50,$60 for 2TB HDD)
• PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G5 850W 80 Gold , An 850W Gold-rated modular PSU provides plenty of clean power for this system, even if upgraded to a higher GPU or CPU in the future. The RTX 4070 Ti has a recommended PSU of around 700W, so 850W gives headroom. This unit also has the necessary 12VHPWR cable (or adapter) for the GPU if needed. (Approx. $130) Alternate: If sticking with a mid-range GPU like 7800 XT, a quality 750W would suffice, but 850W covers even a possible upgrade to an RTX 4080/4090 or RX 7900 XTX later.
• Case: Lian Li Lancool 216 (Mid-Tower), A high-airflow mid-tower with two 160mm front fans and one rear 140mm, great cable management, and room for large GPUs and AIOs. It has a tempered glass side panel to show off your build. (Approx. $100) Any comparable mid-tower from Fractal, Phanteks, Cooler Master, etc. with good airflow (mesh panels) would do. At this budget, you can choose a case that’s both functional and visually appealing since we have some room.
• CPU Cooler: 240mm or 360mm AIO Liquid Cooler (e.g., Corsair iCUE H100i 240mm), To keep the Ryzen 7 7700X nice and cool, an AIO is a great choice. The 7700X has a 105W TDP and can boost quite high; while a decent air cooler could handle it, an AIO will keep temperatures lower and noise down during long gaming sessions. Plus, it adds to the aesthetic with RGB if that’s your thing. (Approx. $100,$150). Alternate: A high-end air cooler like the Noctua NH-D15 or be quiet! Dark Rock 4 is another excellent (and often cheaper) choice if you prefer air cooling. Those can easily cool an 8-core CPU quietly. It mostly comes down to case compatibility and aesthetic preference here.
This mid-range build totals around $1,600,$1,800, depending on the GPU choice and extras. It is a powerful, well-rounded machine ready for modern gaming. Let’s assemble it.
Step-by-Step Assembly (Mid-Range PC)
Building this is similar to the entry-level, with a few additional considerations (like mounting an AIO cooler). I’ll highlight the differences and important steps:
1. Prepare Case and Motherboard: Open up your Lian Li (remove panels, etc.). Install the motherboard standoffs as needed for ATX if not pre-installed. This case has an integrated I/O shield, but if our MSI B650 board has a separate shield, snap it into the case. Place the MSI B650 motherboard on its box and proceed to CPU installation.
2. Install CPU: Lift the AM5 socket lever and carefully place the Ryzen 7 7700X (align the golden triangle on the CPU with the triangle marker on the socket). Close the lever to secure the CPU. (If you had chosen Intel here instead, you’d follow the LGA1700 process similarly.)
3. Install M.2 SSD(s): Before cooler installation (which might block access), install your NVMe SSD in the top M.2 slot (which on B650 is likely CPU-connected for full speed). Same method as earlier: insert at angle, screw it down. If you have a second M.2 SSD, you can install it in the secondary slot now too.
4. Mount the Motherboard in Case: Align and screw down the board onto the standoffs, ensuring the rear ports fit through the I/O opening. Use all necessary screws to secure it.
5. Install PSU: Mount the 850W PSU in the bottom of the case (fan down if vented). Being modular, attach cables: 24-pin ATX, 8-pin EPS (in fact this board might have an 84 pin for CPU, connect both if present for stability in overclocking, though the 8 alone is often enough for an 8-core), and PCIe cables. Also the new 12-pin GPU cable if your PSU has one (for the 4070 Ti).
6. Place & Connect PSU Cables: Route the 24-pin cable to the motherboard’s 24-pin connector and plug it in firmly. Connect the 8-pin (and additional 4-pin if applicable) CPU power cable to the top of the motherboard. These cases often have cutouts to route cables behind for a cleaner build; use those grommets to keep cables tidy.
7. Install CPU Cooler (240/360mm AIO): This is a key difference from the entry build. Plan your radiator mounting: The Lancool 216 can mount a 360mm radiator in front or 240/280mm up top. Let’s say we have a 240mm AIO and put it in the top of the case as exhaust. First, attach the CPU cooling block to the CPU: follow the AIO’s instructions for AM5 mounting (likely install the standoff posts onto the motherboard’s CPU socket brackets, apply thermal paste on CPU, then set the pump/block and screw it down evenly). The AIO’s radiator gets attached to the case , position it so the two attached fans will push air out the top. Screw the radiator in place with the fans. Connect the pump’s power lead to the CPU_FAN or dedicated PUMP header (depends on board; some have CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT/pump , consult manual, but ensure the pump has power). Also connect the radiator fan cables to CPU_FAN (if pump is on a PUMP header) or to a splitter/CHA_FAN headers. Essentially, make sure your cooler’s fans and pump are powered and recognized. If you opted for an air cooler instead: install the backplate (if required), thermal paste, then mount the heatsink and fan(s) according to its instructions. Plug its fan into CPU_FAN header.
8. Install RAM: Insert your 216GB DDR5 sticks into the correct dual-channel slots (usually slots A2 and B2 on most boards, check manual). Ensure they click in fully.
9. Install GPU: Remove the necessary PCIe slot covers (for a 4070 Ti, which is a 2.5-slot card, remove two adjacent covers where the top PCIe slot alignment is). Insert the RTX 4070 Ti into the top PCIe x16 slot until it clicks. Screw it to the case’s expansion bracket. Now connect the GPU power: the 4070 Ti likely uses the 12VHPWR 12-pin connector. Connect the PSU’s 12-pin cable (or the 28-pin to 12-pin adapter if using one) firmly into the GPU. Ensure it’s fully seated , these new connectors sometimes require a good push until you hear/feel a click.
10. Front Panel & Fan Connections: Connect the case’s front panel cables (power/reset/LEDs just like before onto the JFP1 header). This MSI board has an onboard LED EZ Debug, if something’s wrong it will help, but anyway. Also connect the front USB 3.0 cable to the USB3 header, front USB-C cable to the USB-C header, and HD Audio cable to the audio header, same as entry steps. The Lancool’s front fans, since they are 160mm, likely connect to system fan headers or a fan hub; connect them to SYS_FAN1/2 headers (and the rear 140mm to another). You might also have a RGB controller cable to plug in if the fans have RGB; attach that to the ARGB header if applicable.
11. Cable Management: Behind the motherboard tray, use the provided velcro straps or zip ties to neatly bundle cables. Ensure no cables are pressing against side panels excessively. Good cable management not only looks nice through the glass but also helps airflow inside.
12. Power On and BIOS: Do a test boot. Plug in, switch on PSU, hit power. The fans and pump should start, and you should see a BIOS POST. If you don’t get a display, check the debug LEDs on the MSI board , common issues could be RAM not fully seated (LED for RAM), or a cable loose. Once in BIOS, enable XMP/EXPO for the DDR5-6000 memory. Also, check that the BIOS sees your NVMe SSD. Since this board is new, it likely ships with UEFI set to install Windows 11 easily.
13. Install OS and Drivers: Boot from your Windows 11 USB installer, install to the NVMe SSD. After installation, get the latest GPU driver (Nvidia GeForce driver for the 4070 Ti). Install chipset drivers from AMD for B650, and other utilities as needed.
14. Tuning and Testing: With everything installed, you can use a stress test or game benchmark to ensure temperatures are good. The Ryzen 7700X might idle relatively high (Zen 4 often idles at 50C by design and boosts aggressively), but under full gaming load with the 240mm AIO, expect maybe 70C or so , well within safe range. The RTX 4070 Ti will run cool (they are efficient), around 60-70C in gaming typically. If you see anything abnormal (like 90C on CPU under moderate load), double-check cooler mounting and fan curves.
This mid-range PC is now ready to rock. Enjoy gaming at 1440p ultra, you’ll easily hit high refresh rates in games like Rainbow Six Siege or Overwatch 2. Even demanding games (Red Dead Redemption 2, Forza Horizon 5) can be run at 1440p max or 4K high with smooth results. Ray tracing is on the table now for many games thanks to the RTX 4070 Ti’s capability, and DLSS 3 can push frame rates even higher in supported titles. You also have 32GB RAM, so feel free to stream or have dozens of Chrome tabs open while gaming, this rig can handle it.
What to Expect: Simply put, exceptional performance in all areas. 4K gaming at 100 fps in many games (with the help of DLSS or FSR as needed), minimum frame rates that stay very high even in the most demanding scenes, and the ability to handle any peripheral task (streaming, recording, rendering) concurrently. This machine should also be relatively quiet and cool given the high-end cooling and case, unless pushing it to the absolute max.
Recommended Components (High-End)
• CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K (24 cores: 8 P-cores 16 E-cores, up to 6.0 GHz), Intel’s flagship gaming CPU as of late 2023. It offers incredible performance in both single-thread (up to 6 GHz boost) and multi-thread (32 threads chewing through workloads). With this chip, you can game, stream, render a video, and run background tasks all at once without breaking a sweat. It is power-hungry and runs hot under full load (253W PL2 and it can hit 100C without robust cooling), so it demands a high-end cooler (we’ll get to that). Alternatively, for a pure gaming-focused high-end build, AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D or a hypothetical Ryzen 9 X3D could be chosen; those run cooler and often slightly outperform the 14900K in gaming , but they give up a lot of multicore performance (only 8 cores). Given our budget, we can afford the i9 and adequate cooling to have top gaming performance and top productivity performance. (Approx. $580)
• GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4090 24GB, The undisputed king of GPUs. The RTX 4090 delivers around 70,100% better performance than an RTX 4080, especially at 4K and with ray tracing, and it comes with a massive 24GB VRAM which is plenty for even the most extreme modded games or creative workloads. It enables 4K gaming at high refresh rates, e.g., 4K @ 120Hz in many games is achievable with this card, particularly with DLSS 3. Ray tracing performance is best-in-class; titles like Cyberpunk 2077 with path tracing can actually run acceptably with this card (especially using DLSS Frame Generation). At $1600, it’s extremely expensive, but within a $3000 budget, this is where a big chunk of money goes, and it’s worth it if you want the absolute top-tier performance. (Approx. $1600) Alternate: Nvidia RTX 4080 16GB ($1200) or AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24GB ($1000) , If you wanted to save some money while still getting high-end performance, these are options. The 7900 XTX gets you close to 4090 performance in raster for much less money, but lags in ray tracing. The 4080 has excellent efficiency and ray tracing, but is about 25,30% slower than the 4090. However, in a no-compromise build we assume the 4090. It’s simply in a league of its own, often 30% faster than the next-best card in 4K gaming. If you’re spending this much, you likely want that extra performance margin.
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Hero (LGA1700, Z790 chipset) , A high-end Z790 board to support the i9-14900K. This board has top-tier VRM (to handle the 14900K’s power draw and overclocking headroom), lots of USB ports (including Thunderbolt 4/USB4), multiple M.2 slots (often 4 or more, with heatsinks), excellent audio, and plenty of bells and whistles (debug LED, BIOS flashback, dual LAN/Wi-Fi 6E, etc.). In this budget range, the motherboard is partly about features and partly about ensuring absolute stability when pushing the limits. (Approx. $600) Alternate: MSI MEG or Gigabyte AORUS Z790 boards in the $400,$500 range are also great. Even a solid mid-range Z790 like a TUF Gaming would run the i9 fine at stock, but the high-end boards offer more robust power delivery and features fitting a premium build. Given we’re going all-out, the Hero or similar fits the bill.
• RAM: 64 GB (232 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30, Since this system might be used for more than just gaming (and because we can), we’ll equip 64GB of fast DDR5. For strictly gaming, 32GB is plenty, but having 64GB ensures absolutely nothing will slow this machine down due to memory. It’s useful for heavy multitasking, running VMs, or editing 4K video, etc. We’ll use a 232 kit to keep it to two DIMMs (for best stability and maintaining high frequency). DDR5-6000 CL30 (or CL32) kits in 232GB are a bit pricey, but they exist and will allow the i9 to stretch its legs. (Approx. $300) Alternate: 32GB (216) would be fine for gaming, but hey, we have budget. If you do stick to 32GB, you could opt for even faster kit (e.g., DDR5-6400 CL32) as Z790 Intel’s IMC can handle higher speeds more easily than AMD.
• Storage: 2 2 TB NVMe SSD (PCIe 4.0 or 5.0), We’ll drop mechanical drives entirely here and go all solid-state. For instance, a pair of Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe SSDs , one as the boot drive for OS and main games, another for additional games and media. Each 2TB is extremely fast (the 990 Pro can do 7450 MB/s reads, 6900 MB/s writes) and 2TB gives ample space for a large library before needing any HDD. If you have specific needs (like scratch disk for editing, etc.), you could even consider a PCIe 5.0 SSD (e.g., Corsair MP700) for bragging rights, but as mentioned, it won’t vastly improve game load times. Still, this build can afford it. We might also include a large SATA SSD (like 4TB) if more storage is needed for bulk data, but let’s assume 4TB of NVMe total is enough for now. (Approx. $200,$250 each for 2TB high-end NVMe, so $500 total here)
• PSU: Seasonic PRIME TX-1000 (1000W 80 Titanium, ATX 3.0), A top-of-the-line PSU to ensure rock-solid power delivery. 1000W covers the power draw of an i9-14900K (250W) RTX 4090 (450W) plus headroom . This unit is ATX 3.0 and comes with the native 12VHPWR cable for the 4090. Titanium efficiency keeps it very cool and efficient even at high loads. (Approx. $300). The PSU is often an overlooked component, but for this build we want something that will last and handle any transients. Nvidia recommends 850W min for 4090; we go 1000W to be safe, especially with an OC-capable i9 in the mix.
• Case: Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black), A full-tower case with excellent airflow and lots of room for radiators and large GPUs. The 5000D has a clean look with a mesh front for airflow and comes with a couple of 120mm fans (we’ll add more). It supports up to 360mm radiator in front or top, and has plenty of cable management space. In a build this high-end, you could also consider something flashy like the Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL (great for custom water cooling showcase) or other full-tower. The main thing is to ensure it fits the RTX 4090 (which is a very long card) and whatever cooling we use. (Approx. $170)
• CPU Cooler: Custom Liquid Cooling Loop, OR, 360mm AIO. Given the i9-14900K’s heat output, a 360mm AIO is recommended at minimum. For example, the Lian Li Galahad II Trinity 360 AIO is a great cooler with a fancy LCD display and strong cooling. (Approx. $180). However, since this is an ultimate build, one might opt for a custom open-loop cooling solution, putting both the CPU and GPU under water with hardline tubing, etc. That would significantly add to cost (easily $500 for parts) and complexity, and is perhaps beyond the scope of this guide. So, sticking to an AIO for simplicity: the 360mm radiator will be mounted likely at the top of the 5000D case (which has space for it). This will handle the 14900K at full tilt , expect around 90C under all-core AVX loads (which is normal for this CPU), and much lower temps in gaming (since games won’t load all cores fully).
• Additional Cooling/Fans: We’ll populate the case with quality 140mm fans for airflow. Perhaps 3140mm be quiet! Silent Wings or Noctua NF-A14 for intake and 3120mm on the AIO exhaust, etc. Budget perhaps another $100 for extra case fans to maximize airflow.
This configuration comes out around $3,500 , $4,000. Yes, it’s a beast , you can trim some fat (64GB RAM to 32GB, or maybe 4090 to 4080) to reduce cost, but as specced, it’s aiming for the ultimate. Now, to build it:
Step-by-Step Assembly (High-End PC)
Building a high-end PC is fundamentally the same as before, just with more careful planning for things like radiator placement, GPU size, and cable management with so many components. Here we’ll assume an AIO cooler, not a fully custom loop (that would have many more steps for pumps, reservoirs, etc.). Let’s proceed:
1. Case Setup: The Corsair 5000D is quite spacious. Remove all panels. This case may have some modular brackets for SSDs or radiator mounting, detach what you need to for easier building. Ensure the motherboard standoffs are set for ATX (they should be). It has a pre-installed rear fan; we’ll also mount two 140mm intake fans at the front panel (replacing any smaller ones included) for better airflow.
2. Motherboard Prep: Take the ASUS Z790 board and open the LGA1700 socket. Carefully place the Core i9-14900K CPU in and lock it down with the lever (remember the plastic cover will pop off). Given how high-end this board is, it likely has an integrated I/O shield, if not, insert the shield into the case as earlier.
3. M.2 and RAM Installation: Install the two NVMe SSDs into the M.2 slots. High-end boards often have heatsinks, unscrew the heatsink, place the SSD, screw it in, then put the heatsink back on. If the drives have their own heatsinks that conflict, decide whether to use the board’s or the drive’s (the board’s are usually designed to match aesthetics). Install the 64GB (232) DDR5 kit in the correct slots (often A2/B2). This board might support quad-channel but we stick to 2 sticks.
4. Mount Motherboard in Case: With I/O shield aligned, screw the motherboard into the case standoffs. A full tower has plenty of room , ensure all screws (usually 9 for ATX) are in.
5. Install Power Supply: Mount the 1000W Seasonic PSU in the bottom PSU shroud area. This case has a PSU shroud cover, slide the PSU in from the side or back as design allows. Screw it in. Before that, plug in the cables: definitely the 24-pin ATX, two EPS cables (this board likely has 88 pin CPU power to fully feed an overclocked i9), the 12VHPWR for the GPU, and a number of SATA power cables for any accessories (like if we have LED/fan controllers). Route the cables through the back.
6. Plan & Install the CPU Cooler (AIO 360): We have a 360mm AIO. The 5000D can mount a 360 either in front or top (or side). We’ll mount it at the top as exhaust to keep the GPU supplied with cool air from front intake. Screw the three fans to the radiator (orientation: pushing air out of the case). Mount the radiator to the top inside of the case with the included screws. It might be a tight fit with the motherboard and tall RAM, but the 5000D should handle a 360mm. Next, mount the AIO pump/block on the CPU. Apply thermal paste (if not pre-applied), the i9 die is large, a nice pea or X shape is fine. Use the LGA1700 standoffs and mounting brackets provided, tighten the pump block evenly onto the CPU. Plug the pump’s cable into the CPU_FAN or AIO_PUMP header (Asus boards often have a dedicated AIO_PUMP header that runs 100% by default, ideal for pump). Plug the radiator fans into either the CPU_FAN header (via splitter) or a CHA_FAN header (some AIOs come with a controller). In BIOS, we’ll set a smart curve or constant speeds as needed.
7. Install GPU Support (if needed) and GPU: The RTX 4090 is heavy (2 kg) and long. Many high-end cases come with a GPU support bracket or you might use a third-party support to prevent sag. The 5000D doesn’t include one by default, but for a card like this, consider using the little stick-on GPU support that might have come with the GPU or buy a brace. Remove the necessary 3-4 slot covers for the 4090 (it’s a 3.5-slot width!). It likely occupies up to 4 slots. Carefully insert the RTX 4090 into the top PCIe slot , you might need to rearrange some cables because the card is so large. Screw it in with all the screws (the bracket has 3 or 4 screw positions). Attach the GPU support bracket if you have one (some 4090s include a support that screws to the case or a little jack that props up the far end of the card). Now, connect the 12VHPWR 124 pin cable from the PSU to the GPU. Make absolutely sure it clicks in fully , these connectors require firm insertion and should not be at an angle. We’ll also ensure not to bend the cable too sharply near the connector, to avoid the known issues. The Seasonic PSU’s cable should be of high quality, mitigating risk.
8. Front Panel & Misc Connections: Connect the front panel headers (power button, reset, LEDs) to the motherboard’s front panel pins. The Asus board likely has a Q-Connector block to make this easier , use it if provided (it’s a small block you plug the case wires into, then plug the block onto the pins). Connect the front USB 3.0 and USB-C cables to their headers on the board (this board may have two USB3 headers and one USB-C). Connect front audio. Also, this case has a fan/LED hub for its built-in fans possibly; if so, connect its power (SATA) and its PWM control cable to a motherboard header.
9. Additional Fans: We installed 2 front intake 140mm fans , connect those to case fan headers (CHA_FAN1/2 etc.) or to a fan hub. Connect the rear exhaust fan as well. We’ll want a balanced airflow: likely 3 intake (2 front maybe 1 bottom or side if you choose to add) and 3 exhaust (3 on the AIO rad). With this, positive pressure is slightly in favor which is good for dust. Ensure all fan cables are managed.
10. Double Check Wiring: At this stage, triple-check critical connections: 24-pin ATX, both 8-pin CPU power connectors (the Hero board definitely has 88 pins, you need to populate both for stable high loads), GPU power, pump power, fans, and front panel. Also check that no wires are near fan blades (tie them back).
11. First Power On: Connect monitor to the 4090 (DisplayPort/HDMI) and keyboard, etc. Power on the PSU and hit the case Power button. The system should start up, the Asus board has debug LEDs to indicate the progress (CPU, DRAM, VGA, BOOT). First boot might take a bit as it trains memory. If something is amiss (no boot), watch the LEDs, if it stops at DRAM, maybe the RAM isn’t seated or needs a different slot. If at VGA, maybe the GPU power isn’t fully connected. Given quality parts, likely it boots to BIOS fine. Enter BIOS setup.
12. BIOS Setup: Enable XMP for the DDR5-6000 memory. Since we have an i9, also check CPU temps in BIOS , should be fine with pump running (maybe 30-40C idle). We might also adjust fan curves: maybe set case fans to ramp up based on GPU temperature sensor (some boards let you link to GPU temp). But you can fine-tune later in software too.
13. OS Installation: Boot from your Windows 11 installer USB. Install onto the first NVMe (2TB). After OS install, go through drivers:
•Install the latest Nvidia GeForce driver for 4090.
•Chipset drivers for Z790 (Intel INF drivers).
•Intel ME drivers (if needed).
•Install the motherboard’s LAN and Wi-Fi drivers if Windows didn’t.
•Any utility for the board (Asus Armoury Crate can auto-install stuff, albeit somewhat annoyingly).
•If your AIO has software (like Lian Li’s LCD display software or Corsair iCUE if you used Corsair cooler/fans), install those to control RGB, etc.
•NVMe SSD firmware if applicable (Samsung Magician can update firmware).
•Basically get everything up to date.
14. Post-Build Optimization: Because this is high-end, you might want to undervolt or tune that i9 for efficiency, by default the 14900K will try to max turbo at 253W. Undervolting or using an AI Optimizer in BIOS can reduce temps by a lot while only slightly reducing multi-core performance. But that’s optional tweaking. The 4090 might also be power-limited to 450W, you could actually undervolt it to improve efficiency too (common for 4090, e.g., lock at 0.9V for 5-10% fps loss but 20% less power). These are advanced tweaks outside scope but something to consider for thermals and noise optimization in such a beast build.
This high-end build will deliver an amazing experience. To give some concrete numbers: in Cyberpunk 2077 at 4K with RT Overdrive (full path tracing), this PC with DLSS 3 can achieve 80 fps where lesser cards would crawl. In standard rasterized games, you’ll often be CPU-bound even at 1440p, frame rates well above 200 fps in competitive games. The 409014900K combo currently tops most gaming benchmark charts. And with 64GB RAM and 4TB of fast storage, you can multitask and store tons of games/data.
Finally, enjoy the process! Building such a high-end PC is not just about the end result but the experience of putting together a cutting-edge machine. Take pride in routing every cable perfectly and making it look as great as it runs.
A few parting tips:
•Reputable Sources & Shopping: When you’re ready to purchase, use reliable retailers and cross-check prices. Websites like PCPartPicker can help ensure compatibility and find deals. Manufacturer websites provide detailed specs (we cited many such specs above) , always double-check those if you’re unsure (for example, whether a motherboard BIOS supports a newer CPU, or the exact dimensions of a GPU for case fitment).
•Building Process: As we detailed in the how-to sections, take your time with assembly. Use the manuals , even experienced builders refer to motherboard manuals for front panel pin diagrams or BIOS shortcuts. If something doesn’t fit, don’t force it; double-check orientation and compatibility.
•Upgrades: The beauty of a custom PC is that you can upgrade individual parts later. All the builds above have upgrade paths (the entry and mid on AM5/LGA1700 can take newer CPUs or GPUs; the high-end frankly won’t need an upgrade for years, except maybe adding more storage). Keep your PSU capacity in mind if you plan a much more power-hungry GPU upgrade down the line.
•Performance Tuning: After building, spend some time tweaking settings , enable Resizable BAR (SAM) in BIOS, update to the latest GPU drivers, consider slight CPU undervolts to reduce heat (especially on Intel), and use in-game benchmarks or tools like 3DMark to verify your system is performing as expected for the hardware.
Building your own gaming PC is a rewarding experience both for the knowledge gained and the performance you get. Enjoy your new custom rig, and game on! Each of these builds should serve you well for years, and because you built it yourself, you know exactly what’s inside and how to fix or upgrade it whenever the next shiny hardware catches your eye.
Happy building in 2025!
Choosing the Right Components in 2025
Before diving into specific build recommendations, let’s review the key components of a gaming PC and what to look for in 2025. We’ll cover current CPUs, GPUs, memory, storage, motherboards, power supplies, and cooling options , highlighting pros, cons, pricing, and performance for each.CPU (Processor)
The CPU is the brain of your PC, and in 2025 we have outstanding options from both Intel and AMD. Intel’s 13th and 14th-gen Core processors (codenamed Raptor Lake and its refresh) and AMD’s Ryzen 7000 series (Zen 4), with Ryzen 8000/9000 (Zen 5) on the horizon, dominate the market.• Core Count & Architecture: Modern Intel chips use a hybrid design with Performance-cores (P-cores) and Efficient-cores (E-cores). For example, the Intel Core i5-13400F has 6 P-cores 4 E-cores (10 cores total, 16 threads) and boosts up to 4.6 GHz. This gives it strong gaming performance on the P-cores and decent multithreaded performance using all cores, impressive for a $200 CPU. In fact, the 13th-gen i5 added more E-cores over 12th-gen, making it a “plucky” budget chip that can handle gaming and light productivity smoothly. AMD’s CPUs stick to high-performance cores only (no separate efficiency cores) but often include Simultaneous Multithreading (SMT) to double the thread count. For instance, the AMD Ryzen 5 7600 launched at a $229 MSRP with 6 cores / 12 threads, base clock 3.8 GHz and boost up to 5.1 GHz. Both Intel and AMD mid-range CPUs now easily hit 5 GHz turbo frequencies out of the box.
• Gaming Performance: As of 2025, AMD’s 3D V-Cache processors are king of gaming performance. Chips like the Ryzen 7 7800X3D (Zen 4) and the new Ryzen 7 9800X3D (Zen 5) use extra L3 cache to boost game frame rates. The Ryzen 7 9800X3D, with 8 cores/16 threads and a massive 96 MB L3 cache, is “demonstrably quicker in gaming than any other CPU around today,” even beating higher-core-count rivals. That cache lets it outrun Intel’s flagship Core i9 in many games. Speaking of Intel, the Core i9-14900K (24 cores: 8P 16E) is Intel’s fastest gaming chip, but due to its brute-force approach (high clock speeds, lots of cores), it runs hot and power-hungry.
In pure gaming, a Ryzen 7 7800X3D can actually edge out a 14900K by 5% on average, despite the Intel chip’s higher core count. In CPU-bound titles like Warhammer 3 or F1 2023, the extra cache on the Ryzen yields better FPS. On the other hand, the Core i9’s 24 cores give it a huge advantage in heavy multitasking or content creation, it can be nearly 2 faster in multithreaded benchmarks (Intel’s 14900K scored 98% higher in Cinebench multi-core than a 7800X3D). Bottom line: For pure gaming, a mid-range 8-core Ryzen 3D chip is often the sweet spot, while Intel’s high-core-count CPUs excel at streaming, video editing, and other tasks alongside gaming.
• Platform and Longevity: AMD’s AM5 platform (for Ryzen 7000/8000 series) uses DDR5 memory and is expected to support new CPU generations through at least 2025, providing an upgrade path. For example, a Ryzen 7 7700X on AM5 today could be upgraded to a future Ryzen 9000-series CPU without changing your motherboard or RAM. Intel’s LGA1700 platform (12th/13th-gen) is at its end, the 14th-gen refresh still used it, but the next-gen (Arrow Lake) will move to a new socket, meaning less forward compatibility. Keep this in mind if you want to upgrade CPUs down the road.
• Price and Value: You don’t need to spend a fortune on a CPU for gaming. $200,$300 CPUs like Intel’s Core i5-13400F or Core i5-13600K, and AMD’s Ryzen 5 7600 or Ryzen 7 7700X, already deliver high FPS in games. Higher-end chips mainly help with specialized workloads or pushing absolutely every frame possible at low resolution. Also note that Intel’s 14th-gen chips were mostly minor tweaks, if a 13th-gen model is cheaper, go for it as performance is virtually the same . For instance, a Core i5-13400F performs almost identically to a hypothetical “14400F”, so paying extra for the newer name isn’t worthwhile.
In summary, for budget builds (6-core CPUs) and mid-range (8- to 10-core CPUs), you have great options from both brands. For high-end, decide if you want the absolute fastest gaming chip (AMD X3D) or a do-it-all powerhouse (Intel i9 or Ryzen 9). Either way, pair the CPU with a cooler and motherboard that can support its power needs (more on that soon).
GPU (Graphics Card)
The graphics card is the most important component for gaming performance. In 2025, the current GPU lineup includes Nvidia’s GeForce RTX 40-series and AMD’s Radeon RX 7000-series, with both offering excellent performance at different price tiers (the next-gen RTX 50-series and RX 8000-series are on the horizon, but as of early 2025 the 40- and 7000-series are the ones widely available).• Entry-Level & 1080p Gaming: For 1080p resolution, AMD’s Radeon RX 7600 (8GB) and Nvidia’s GeForce RTX 4060 (8GB) are popular budget choices. The RX 7600, launched at $269, is targeted at mainstream 1080p gamers. It’s a “stellar 1080p performer”, easily hitting 60 FPS in nearly every game at high settings, and very high frame rates in esports titles. This card outpaces last-gen midrange cards like the RX 6600 and trades blows with Nvidia’s RTX 3060. Its main limitation is the 8 GB VRAM: 8 GB is fine for today’s 1080p games, but it could become a bottleneck in a couple of years for the most demanding new titles.
Nvidia’s RTX 4060 offers similar 1080p performance, with the benefit of DLSS upscaling and better ray tracing, but at a slightly higher price ($299). At this budget, you’ll generally get the best bang-for-buck with AMD’s GPUs or even Intel’s Arc GPUs (like the Arc A750) if on sale, since Nvidia tends to charge a premium. Expectations: A $250,$300 GPU in 2025 can comfortably handle 1080p/60fps in AAA games (often much higher), or 1080p 144Hz in competitive titles.
• Mid-Range & 1440p Gaming: In the mid-range ($500,$800 GPUs), you can target high-refresh-rate 1440p or entry-level 4K gaming. Notable contenders are Nvidia’s RTX 4070 (12GB) and RTX 4070 Ti (12GB), and AMD’s RX 7800 XT (16GB) and RX 7900 XT (20GB). AMD generally offers more VRAM and raw rasterization performance for the money, while Nvidia offers better ray tracing performance and proprietary features like DLSS 3 frame generation. For example, the Radeon RX 7800 XT 16GB often outperforms the RTX 4070 in traditional rendering, one benchmark showed the 7800 XT 9,10% higher FPS than the RTX 4070 at 4K in a rasterized game.
In some games (like Starfield), the 7800 XT can be 20% faster than a 4070 for about the same price. On the flip side, the RTX 4070’s Ada Lovelace architecture is more efficient and excels at ray-traced gaming; Nvidia’s DLSS technology can significantly boost performance with minimal quality loss, giving the 4070 an edge in supported games. Both the 4070 and 7800 XT are great 1440p cards, the 7800 XT’s extra 4GB of VRAM might offer more longevity, whereas the 4070’s superior DLSS 3 could keep frames smoother in cutting-edge titles.
• Availability note: Some mid-tier GPUs saw supply issues early on, the RTX 4060 Ti 16GB was scarce and overpriced, and even the RTX 4070 sometimes sold above MSRP. AMD’s cards, like the RX 7700 XT (12GB), tend to be easier to find at retail price. In fact, the RX 7700 XT is close in performance to the higher-end 7800 XT, so it can be a decent value option if you need to save a bit. Just remember that jumping up one tier (to a 7800 XT or RTX 4070) can yield a notable performance boost if your budget allows.
• High-End & 4K Gaming: At the top of the stack, we have behemoths like the Nvidia RTX 4090 (24GB) and AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX (24GB), and Nvidia’s slightly cut-down RTX 4080 (16GB). These cards are ideal for 4K ultra gaming, high-refresh 1440p, and VR. The RTX 4090 is the reigning performance champion, it’s roughly 30% faster than AMD’s best (RX 7900 XTX) at 4K in rasterized performance, and its ray tracing prowess is in a class of its own (in heavy ray tracing scenarios, a 4090 can be nearly 80,90% faster than a 7900 XTX).
However, it comes at an extreme price ($1600). AMD’s RX 7900 XTX, on the other hand, offers about 85,90% of the 4090’s gaming performance for roughly half the price, making it a strong contender for high-end builds where value is still a consideration. The 7900 XTX generally matches or beats Nvidia’s RTX 4080 in games, especially at 4K, in many titles it’s 10% faster than the 4080, while costing several hundred dollars less. The trade-off is weaker ray tracing performance and the lack of DLSS (though AMD’s open-source FSR 2/3 is supported in many games as an alternative upscaling tech).
• Ultra-High-End (Multi-GPU?): It’s worth noting that multi-GPU (SLI/CrossFire) setups have fallen out of favor. Virtually no modern games support multi-GPU, and both Nvidia and AMD have deprecated this in drivers. So for a $3000 budget, you’re better off getting the single most powerful GPU you can (e.g., one RTX 4090) rather than two lower cards. One 4090 will outperform two lesser cards in almost all games due to lack of SLI support, not to mention avoiding the heat and power complications.
• VRAM and Future-Proofing: VRAM (video memory) is a hot topic. New games in 2025 are gobbling more VRAM, especially at high resolutions or with extreme texture packs. Cards like the RTX 4060 Ti 8GB have seen criticism for limited VRAM causing texture swapping or stutters in certain games. As a rule of thumb, 8GB is fine for 1080p now, 12,16GB is ideal for 1440p, and 16GB is recommended for 4K to be safe for the next few years. All current AMD high-end cards have 16GB or more, whereas Nvidia tends to have 10,12GB on midrange (4070 has 12, 4070 Ti 12, 4080 16, 4090 24). If you plan to mod games or play VR titles, err on the side of more VRAM.
In summary, choose your GPU based on the resolution and frame rate you want. For 1080p@60-144Hz, a $300 card (RX 7600 / RTX 4060) is great. For 1440p@144Hz or 4K@60Hz, look at $500,$800 cards (RTX 4070/Ti, RX 7800 XT, 7900 XT). For 4K@120Hz or elite performance, the $1000 range (RTX 4080, 4090; RX 7900 XTX) is where to aim. Keep in mind features and ecosystem, if you value ray tracing and DLSS 3, Nvidia might be worth the premium; if you want the best raw performance per dollar and extra VRAM, AMD is very appealing.
Memory (RAM)
RAM might not be as glamorous as your CPU or GPU, but it’s critical for a smooth gaming experience. In 2025, DDR5 memory has become mainstream on new platforms, while older DDR4 still hangs around in budget builds.• DDR5 vs DDR4: DDR5 launched in late 2021 and initially was very expensive with only marginal gaming benefit. Now in 2025, DDR5 prices have dropped and speeds have increased. High-end DDR5 kits (6000 MT/s) can noticeably improve minimum FPS in CPU-bound games, especially on Ryzen 7000 series due to Infinity Fabric coupling. However, DDR4 is extremely cheap now, you can get 16GB of DDR4 for under $40. For a budget builder, sticking with DDR4 (and an older platform that supports it) can save a lot of money with minimal impact on game performance . In fact, one reason our entry-level build later uses Intel 13th-gen is because it lets us use cheap DDR4 memory, freeing up budget for a better GPU. If you go with AMD’s AM5 or Intel’s newer platform that requires DDR5, expect to spend a bit more on RAM, but you’ll get the benefits of the new tech.
• Capacity, 16GB, 32GB, or more?: Until recently, 16GB (28GB) was the de facto standard for gaming PCs. In 2025, 16GB is the minimum for a new build, and 32GB is the new sweet spot for mid-range and high-end systems. Games are gradually using more memory, and if you multi-task (stream, have Discord, Chrome, etc. open while gaming), 32GB ensures you won’t hit a memory wall. Many PC enthusiasts now consider 32GB the “standard” for builds over $1500. If you’re strictly on a tight budget or only play less demanding titles, 16GB will still do the job today, most games won’t require more, though a few very heavy titles can use 12-15GB.
For ultra-high-end or prosumer builds (e.g., $3000 builds that might also do content creation), 64GB could be considered, but it’s overkill for gaming alone. The takeaway: go with 28GB (16GB total) for entry-level, and 216GB (32GB total) for anything mid-range or above. Make sure to get its rated XMP/EXPO profile speed, e.g. DDR5-6000 or DDR4-3200, and enable that in BIOS to get full performance.
• Latency and Speed: DDR5 kits have higher latency numbers than DDR4 (CL30 vs CL16, etc.), but their higher frequency usually makes up for it. For AMD Ryzen systems, look for DDR5 in the 5600,6000 MT/s range, which is often cited as the sweet spot for Zen 4. For Intel, DDR5 speed is a bit less critical for gaming, but faster RAM can still help in some scenarios. If using DDR4 on a budget, a dual-channel 3200 MT/s kit with low CAS (CL16) is ideal and dirt cheap nowadays.
Storage (SSD/HDD)
Gone are the days when an old spinning hard drive was acceptable for a gaming PC boot drive. NVMe SSDs (the gumstick-sized drives that plug into the motherboard) are the standard now. They offer dramatically faster load times and a snappier overall system.• NVMe SSDs (PCIe 4.0 vs 5.0): Most new motherboards support PCIe 4.0 SSDs, and the latest support PCIe 5.0 SSDs with even higher theoretical speeds. In practice, a good PCIe 4.0 NVMe (like a WD Black SN770 or Samsung 980 Pro) with 5,000,7,000 MB/s read speeds will load games in just a few seconds. PCIe 5.0 drives can hit 10,000 MB/s, but as of 2025 they are expensive and tend to run hot (often requiring heatsinks).
For gaming, the real-world difference between Gen4 and Gen5 SSDs is negligible , you might shave a second or two off a load screen at best . If budget is a concern, a Gen3 NVMe or SATA SSD can still do the job (they’ll just be a bit slower in loading large levels). But with 1TB Gen4 NVMe drives often around $60 now, it’s a no-brainer to use them. We recommend at least a 1 TB NVMe SSD for your OS and games. Modern games are huge (100GB isn’t uncommon), so 500GB can feel cramped quickly. If you have a large library, consider 2 TB. You can always add a secondary drive later if needed.
• HDDs for Bulk Storage: Hard drives (HDDs) are now mostly relegated to mass storage of media, backups, or an overflowing game library where absolute speed isn’t crucial. They are much slower and not ideal for games (some new games won’t even run well from an HDD due to asset streaming requirements). That said, if you have a lot of older or less-played games, you could use a 2,4 TB HDD in addition to your SSD. Our mid-range build example includes an optional 2TB hard drive for extra storage of videos, etc. But if budget allows, you might opt for an SATA SSD or a second NVMe instead for those large files, for the sake of silence and speed.
• Key Specs: Look at capacity and read/write speeds. Most NVMe drives list sequential read speeds; anything above 3,000 MB/s is fine for gaming, which basically means any PCIe 3.0 x4 or better. Also consider the DRAM cache (DRAM-less drives are okay for gaming but might slow down during heavy sustained writes) and endurance (TBW) if you plan to keep the drive a long time. Many mid-range NVMe SSDs (like Crucial P5 Plus, SK Hynix Platinum, etc.) offer a great balance of performance and price.
Motherboard and Chipset
The motherboard is what connects all your parts, and it determines what features and upgrades your PC can support. The main things to consider are the socket/chipset (which must match your CPU), form factor, and connectivity features.• Chipsets (Intel): Current Intel 12th/13th/14th-gen CPUs use LGA1700 socket, typically on 600-series or 700-series chipsets. Common options: B660/B760 (mid-range chipset) and Z690/Z790 (high-end chipset). The B-series boards are cheaper and lack CPU overclocking support (which only matters if you have a “K” CPU you wanted to overclock). They usually have fewer USB ports, PCIe lanes, and slightly simpler voltage regulator modules (VRMs), but they are perfectly capable for builds that run at stock settings. The Z-series boards allow overclocking and tend to offer more of everything (USB/Thunderbolt ports, additional M.2 slots, better audio, etc.). For example, an Intel B660 board might have 2 M.2 slots and 6 USB ports, whereas a Z690 could have 4 M.2 slots and 10 USB ports, Wi-Fi, etc. If you’re not overclocking, a good B760 board can save money while providing all needed features.
• Chipsets (AMD): AMD’s AM5 platform has X670(X) and B650(E) chipsets (with E variants offering more PCIe 5.0 lanes). Like Intel, the X series is higher-end (more ports, usually better VRM for overclocking) while B series is mid-range. For instance, B650 boards offer up to 36 PCIe lanes and roughly half the USB/SATA count of an X670 board. In practice, 36 lanes is plenty for one GPU and a few SSDs. Unless you need lots of expansion cards or extra I/O, B650 covers most gaming builds well. X670 boards might add things like a second PCIe 5.0 M.2 slot, more high-speed USB (20 Gbps) ports, etc. One specific note: all AM5 boards require DDR5 memory (DDR4 is not supported on Ryzen 7000), so factor that into your budget.
• Form Factor: ATX is the standard desktop motherboard size and will fit in any mid-tower or larger case. There are also Micro-ATX (mATX, slightly smaller, usually 2 PCIe slots instead of 3-4) and Mini-ITX (much smaller, for compact builds) boards. Smaller boards often have to sacrifice some slots or features due to size, and they can be a bit fiddlier to build with. All our example builds assume ATX or mATX for simplicity and airflow, but if you want a very small LAN-party PC, Mini-ITX is an option (just note ITX boards and cases tend to cost more).
• Features to look for: VRM quality (especially for high CPU power draw , ensures stable power delivery), number of M.2 SSD slots, onboard Wi-Fi/BT (if you need wireless networking, many B650/B760 boards now include Wi-Fi 6), USB port count and type (USB-C front panel header if your case has a Type-C port, for example), and audio codec quality (if you use analog headphones/speakers). Also check the rear I/O, make sure it has enough USB ports for your peripherals. Nowadays, even budget boards often come with a pre-installed I/O shield and convenient features like BIOS flashback (to update BIOS without a CPU, helpful for future CPU upgrades).
• Upgrade Path and Compatibility: If you get an AMD B650 board now for a Ryzen 5 7600, you could potentially upgrade to a Ryzen 9 8xxx or 9xxx later on the same board. Likewise, an Intel B760 board with a Core i5-13400F could (with a BIOS update) support an i7-13700K or i9-13900K if you decided to upgrade , but note that going from a non-overclockable board to a K CPU means you still can’t overclock the K chip’s cores (though it would still run at its high boost clocks). Ensure your board’s power delivery and cooling can handle a higher-tier CPU if you plan to upgrade to one; mid-range boards can handle mid-range CPUs easily, but putting a 253W Core i9-14900K on a very cheap board might throttle under full load.
In general, don’t overspend on the motherboard, get one that meets your needs. A $150 board and a $250 board often perform identically in gaming; the differences lie in extra features and robustness. Unless you need the extras, that money often yields more FPS if put into a better GPU instead.
Power Supply (PSU)
The PSU feeds power to everything in the system , it’s literally what keeps the lights on. A good PSU is crucial for stability and safety. You’ll want a unit that provides sufficient wattage, reliable power delivery (quality), and appropriate connectors for your GPU/components.• Wattage: The required wattage depends on your GPU and CPU. Entry-level builds with a single mid-range GPU and CPU typically draw 300,400W under load, so a quality 550W or 600W PSU is sufficient. Our budget build uses a 650W unit to have ample headroom. Mid-range systems (RTX 4070/4080 or RX 7800 XT/7900 XT class with higher-end CPUs) can draw 500,600W, so we recommend 750W to 850W to be safe. High-end rigs (RTX 4090 Core i9, etc.) might draw 700,800W at peak, so a 1000W PSU is advised. It’s wise to have some headroom (you don’t want to run the PSU at 100% all the time). Also, PSUs are most efficient at 50% load. For instance, if your system typically draws 500W while gaming, an 850W Gold PSU will run cool and efficient.
• Efficiency Rating: You’ve likely seen 80 Plus certifications: Bronze, Gold, Platinum, etc. These indicate efficiency (and loosely quality). At a minimum, get an 80 Bronze unit for budget builds, though 80 Gold units have become very affordable and typically use better components. In our builds, we spec Bronze for the entry rig and Gold for mid-range, with Platinum in the high-end. Higher efficiency means less waste heat and slightly lower electricity usage.
• Quality and Protections: Not all PSUs are equal even if wattage is same. Stick to reputable brands/models (Corsair, Seasonic, EVGA, SilverStone, etc. have solid options). Look for features like OVP/UVP (over/under-voltage protection), OCP (over-current), SCP (short-circuit), most quality PSUs have these. Avoid no-name “600W for $20” units; they rarely deliver their labeled power and can fail disastrously. A good PSU will last you many years and possibly through multiple builds.
• Connectors (PCIe 5.0 / 12VHPWR): Newer high-end GPUs (RTX 40-series) use the 124 pin 12VHPWR connector (also called PCIe 5.0 connector). Many new PSUs labeled “ATX 3.0” include this cable natively. If your PSU doesn’t have it, GPUs like the RTX 4090 will include adapter cables that convert multiple 8-pin PCIe plugs to the single 12VHPWR. It’s generally recommended to use a PSU that has the proper connector if possible, for the best reliability with power spikes. Also ensure the PSU has enough PCIe 8-pin cables for your GPU (e.g., an RTX 3080 uses two 8-pin cables). Most modular PSUs in the 600W range will provide plenty.
• Modular vs Non-Modular: Modular PSUs let you detach unused cables for a cleaner build. Non-modular are cheaper but have all cables permanently attached (you’ll have to hide the extras in the case). Semi-modular is a mix (fixed main cables, the rest removable). It’s mostly a cable management preference; modular is nice if budget allows.
Cooling (CPU Coolers & Case Airflow)
Keeping your CPU and GPU cool ensures optimal performance and longevity. Cooling includes both the CPU cooler and the case airflow (fans and layout). Plus, high-end builds might consider liquid cooling.• CPU Coolers (Air vs Liquid): Every CPU needs a cooler. Some CPUs come with a stock cooler in the box (e.g., AMD’s Ryzen 5 7600 includes a Wraith Stealth cooler). Stock coolers are usually okay for stock speeds, they are designed to dissipate the CPU’s TDP under normal conditions. In entry-level builds, using the included cooler is a sensible way to save money . For instance, the Ryzen 5’s Wraith cooler can handle its 65W TDP, albeit running a bit warm (90C under load is normal for these CPUs). Aftermarket air coolers ($30-$50 tower coolers) will usually cool better and quieter. A popular choice is the Thermalright Peerless Assassin or similar dual-fan tower, which offers near high-end performance for around $35.
Liquid all-in-one (AIO) coolers have become common as well, especially in mid/high builds. A 240mm or 360mm AIO can tame even power-hungry CPUs. For example, Intel’s Core i9-14900K has a 253W turbo power rating and can run hot (easily hitting 90,100C under full load). A strong 360mm AIO or custom liquid loop is recommended for such a chip. On the other hand, AMD’s efficiency-focused chips like the 7800X3D (120W) run cooler and can be managed with a mid-range air cooler or a 240mm AIO without issue. When choosing between air and liquid: Air coolers are cheaper and have less potential failure points (a fan is easier to replace than a pump), while AIO liquid coolers can offer lower temps on high wattage CPUs and reduce clutter around the CPU socket (useful in builds with tall RAM or limited space).
• Case Airflow: Your case and fan setup also matter. A good gaming case in 2025 should have at least two or three 120mm or 140mm fans for airflow. Typically, you’d have intake fans at front/bottom pulling cool air in, and exhaust fans at top/rear pushing hot air out. Many cases come with fans pre-installed (though often just basic ones). For our builds, we assume a standard ATX case with decent airflow (mesh front or vents). If you choose a flashy case with a tempered glass front, be mindful that airflow could be restricted, you might need to adjust fan configuration. When installing your components, ensure your GPU has breathing room (most gaming GPUs are 2-3 slots thick; make sure your case can accommodate the length and that there’s space for air to circulate around it). Likewise, manage cables so they don’t obstruct fans. High-end GPUs like the RTX 4090 will dump a lot of heat into the case; having a couple of top exhaust fans helps expel that heat quickly.
• Noise Considerations: Larger fans (140mm) can move the same air at lower RPM, hence quieter. Quality fans or coolers can significantly reduce noise while keeping temps low. If you want a silent build, consider aftermarket case fans or dampened case designs. Conversely, small form factor builds often have to accept a bit more noise due to smaller, faster-spinning fans.
• Thermal Paste: Don’t forget to apply thermal paste (a pea-sized dot in the center of the CPU is a common method) if your cooler doesn’t have it pre-applied. Most aftermarket coolers include paste or have pre-applied compound on the heatsink base.
In summary, match your cooler to your CPU’s needs: use stock or a basic air cooler for lower-TDP chips and budget builds, and invest in robust cooling (tower air cooler or AIO) for higher TDP chips to avoid throttling. Maintain good case airflow with properly placed fans. This will keep your system running at peak performance and help components like the CPU and GPU boost to their highest clocks consistently.
Budget Levels
Now that we’ve covered the component basics, let’s get into the build guides for three budget levels:• Entry-Level (Under $1,000): Aimed at 1080p gaming.
• Mid-Range ($1,500,$2,000): Aimed at high-settings 1440p (and some 4K).
• High-End ($3,000): A no-compromise 4K gaming beast.
Each section will include a recommended parts list and a step-by-step assembly guide.
Entry-Level Gaming PC Build (Under $1,000)
What to Expect: An entry-level gaming PC in this price range will comfortably handle 1080p gaming. You can play esports games (like Fortnite, Valorant) at high frame rates, and even modern AAA games at 1080p high settings around 60 fps or better. This build focuses on maximum value: getting the best GPU possible under $1000, while using a cost-effective CPU and platform. We also ensure there’s an easy upgrade path for the future.Recommended Components (Entry-Level)
• CPU: Intel Core i5-13400F (10-core, 16-thread, up to 4.6 GHz), A fantastic budget gaming CPU. With 6 performance cores and 4 efficiency cores, it offers snappy gaming performance and can handle streaming or light content creation in a pinch. We choose Intel here because this 13th-gen chip allows use of cheaper DDR4 memory, helping keep the total cost down. (Approx. $180,$200)
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7600 8GB , This card delivers excellent 1080p performance for the price. It’s “easily capable of high framerates in eSports titles and maintaining 60 fps at 1080p in almost every game.” With 8GB VRAM and modern RDNA3 architecture, it outperforms last-gen cards in its class and trades blows with the pricier Nvidia RTX 3060. (Approx. $250,$280) Alternate: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4060 8GB (approximately $300) , similar 1080p performance, with DLSS and better ray tracing. If you value those features and can spend a bit more, the RTX 4060 is an option, though in pure performance the RX 7600 is very close.
• Motherboard: ASRock B660M Pro RS (Intel B660, LGA1700, mATX), A budget-friendly board that supports 12th/13th-gen Intel CPUs and DDR4 RAM. It has all the essentials: 2 M.2 NVMe slots, 4 DDR4 slots, and decent audio/VRM for a locked i5. Since the i5-13400F isn’t overclockable, a B660 is perfect. (Approx. $100)
• RAM: 16 GB (28 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16, Fast enough for any game, and 16GB capacity will handle modern titles (most games use well under 16GB). We’re using DDR4 here because it’s much cheaper than DDR5 for similar performance. (Approx. $30,$40 for a quality kit) Note: If you find a good deal on a bundle with DDR5 (say you went with an i5-13500 on a B760 DDR5 board), ensure to get at least 16GB DDR5-5600. But that route likely adds cost without a big FPS gain, so DDR4 is the value play.
• SSD: 1 TB NVMe M.2 SSD (PCIe 4.0), For example, a WD Black SN770 1TB NVMe. This gives fast boot times and game load times. 1TB is a good starting point; you can install 10,20 large games. The SN770 is rated up to 5,150 MB/s reads which is plenty. (Approx. $60) Alternate: If an NVMe slot is used by a smaller SSD or you want more space cheaply, you could add a 1TB SATA SSD or even a HDD for older games/media.
• PSU: Corsair RM650 650W 80 Bronze (or Gold), A 650W reputable power supply gives ample headroom for this build, which will draw 300W or so at full tilt. The Corsair RM series is a high-quality unit. 650W also leaves room if you upgrade to a more power-hungry GPU later. (Approx. $80) Note: You could go lower (500W,550W) if that’s significantly cheaper, but often a bit more wattage at Bronze/Gold isn’t much extra cost and provides flexibility.
• Case: DIYPC or Cooler Master mid-tower (with 2,3 included fans) , Cases are subjective in style, but look for an ATX mid-tower with good airflow (mesh front or side vents). For example, an Aerocool Zauron is an affordable case that comes with fans. Ensure it fits your GPU length (the RX 7600 cards are generally compact anyway) and has front panel USB, etc. (Approx. $50,$70)
This sample configuration comes out to roughly $750,$800 in total , often leaving room in the $1000 budget for peripherals or an upgrade (you could bump the GPU to an RX 6650 XT 8GB or RTX 3060 12GB if you find a sale, or simply pocket the savings). It’s a balanced build: the CPU and GPU are well-matched, and there’s a clear upgrade path (you could later drop in an i7-13700 or a stronger GPU without changing much else).
Step-by-Step Assembly (Entry-Level PC)
Now, let’s build this PC! Even if it’s your first time, just go slow and follow these steps. Remember to ground yourself before handling components, touch an unpainted metal part of the case or PSU to discharge static electricity (avoid building on carpet). Keep your components on a table or desk, and have a Phillips screwdriver handy.
1. Prepare the Case: Unscrew and remove the side panels of your case. If your case came with any packing foam or cardboard inside, take that out. Ensure the motherboard standoffs (small brass spacers) are installed in the motherboard tray in positions corresponding to an mATX/ATX board (our ASRock B660M is mATX, so typically 6 standoffs). Most cases have these pre-installed. Also, if your motherboard has a separate I/O shield (a thin metal plate for the rear ports), snap it into the case’s rear I/O cutout from the inside before installing the board.
2. Install the CPU onto the Motherboard: Place the motherboard on a flat surface (on top of its cardboard box or an anti-static mat). For Intel LGA1700 sockets, push the lever down and away to open the socket cover. Carefully insert the Core i5-13400F CPU: align the notches on the CPU with the socket (and the gold triangle on the CPU corner with the triangle marking on the socket). Gently drop it in place , do not force it. Close the socket latch/lever; it may require a bit of pressure. The black plastic cover will pop off, that’s normal. (If using an AMD AM5 CPU in a different build, the process is slightly different: you’d lift the lever, drop the CPU in the PGA socket holes, etc., but for our Intel CPU it’s an LGA mechanism.)
3. Install the CPU Cooler: Since the i5-13400F doesn’t include a stock cooler, we’ll assume using an affordable aftermarket air cooler or an Intel stock cooler from another model. In our example, let’s say we have a basic Laminar RM1 stock cooler (the kind Intel includes with non-K i5s) . If your cooler has pre-applied thermal paste, great, if not, apply a pea-sized dot of thermal paste on the center of the CPU heat-spreader. For the Intel push-pin cooler, orient it so that the pins line up with the holes around the socket. Press down each pin diagonally opposite in pairs until they click. Verify all four push-pins are through the board and locked. (For other air coolers, you might have a mounting bracket , consult the manual. Generally, screw down the heatsink evenly onto the CPU with paste in between.) Tip: Plug the cooler’s fan cable into the CPU_FAN header on the motherboard (usually near the CPU socket). It’s a small 4-pin header. Without doing this, the system will warn of no CPU fan.
4. Install Memory (RAM): Locate the DIMM slots on the motherboard. For dual-channel, use the slots as indicated in the motherboard manual (often if there are 4 slots, and you have 2 sticks, you use slot A2 and B2 which are the second and fourth slots from the CPU). Open the retention clips on those slots. Take your 28GB DDR4 DIMMs and firmly press each into the slot until the clip snaps back up, securing the RAM. They only fit one way (match the notch).
5. Install M.2 SSD: Find the M.2 slot on the board (most likely just below the CPU area). Unscrew the tiny M.2 screw if it’s there. Insert the NVMe SSD at a 30-degree angle into the slot (keyed notch aligns with the socket). Push it in until it’s fully seated. Then screw it down using the tiny screw to secure the drive flat to the board. Be gentle and don’t over-tighten (the screws are tiny).
6. Mount the Motherboard in the Case: Double-check that the case standoffs align with the board’s mounting holes. Gently lower the motherboard into the case, guiding the rear ports through the I/O shield cutout. Line up the screw holes with standoffs. Using the screws provided with your case, screw the board down at all corners and along the edges (for mATX, usually 6 screws). Don’t over-tighten; just snug them.
7. Install the Power Supply: If modular, attach the necessary cables first: for this build you’ll need the 24-pin ATX cable, an 8-pin EPS cable (CPU power), and a couple of PCIe 8-pin cables (actually for the RX 7600, only a single 8-pin PCIe power is needed). Mount the PSU in the case’s PSU bay, typically at the bottom rear. Orient the PSU so its fan faces out through a vent (downward if your case has a bottom filter vent). Secure it with 4 screws on the back.
8. Connect Power Cables (Motherboard and CPU): Plug the 24-pin main power cable from the PSU into the motherboard’s 24-pin socket (usually on the right-hand side of the board). It’s keyed and will click in. Then plug the 8-pin EPS cable (might be 44 pin) into the motherboard’s CPU power header near the top-left of the board. Ensure it clicks in. These two connections feed power to the board and CPU.
9. Install the Graphics Card: Remove the appropriate expansion slot covers on the case (for the slot you’ll use , typically the top PCIe x16 slot). The RX 7600 is a smaller card; it will use maybe 2 slots width. Insert the GPU into the top PCIe x16 slot on the motherboard (push aside any latch if present). Press firmly until it’s fully seated and the slot’s latch clicks onto the GPU. Secure the GPU’s bracket to the case with screws where the slot covers were removed.
10. Connect GPU Power: Attach a PSU PCIe 8-pin power connector to the graphics card’s power port (the RX 7600 reference needs one 8-pin). Make sure it’s fully seated. For cards requiring two 8-pins (just an FYI for others), you’d connect both.
11. Front Panel Connections: This is fiddly but important. Locate the case’s front panel connector wires (power switch, reset switch, power LED, HDD LED, etc.). Consult your motherboard manual or look closely at the markings on the board’s front panel header (usually bottom-right corner). Plug in the power switch cable to the PWR pins, reset to RESET pins, and LED cables to their /, pins (the tiny labels on the cables and board help; note that LED connectors are polarized, while switches are not). Also connect front panel USB ports (a cable likely goes to a USB3 header on the board , a big 20-pin connector) and front audio (usually a HD_AUDIO 9-pin header on bottom left of board).
12. Case Fans and Other Connections: Connect your case’s fans to the motherboard fan headers or to a fan hub. Typically, there will be SYS_FAN or CHA_FAN headers. If the fans use 3-pin connectors, connect to 4-pin headers (they will work, possibly at fixed speed unless your board offers DC control). If any front panel USB-C, plug that cable in as well (some boards have a USB-C header).
13. Double-Check Everything: At this point, verify all major connections: 24-pin ATX, 8-pin CPU power, CPU fan cable, GPU seated and powered, front panel connectors, RAM seated, etc. Also, tidy up cables , use zip ties to bundle excess and keep them out of fans. Ensure no loose screws or wires are left inside the case.
14. Power On Test: Moment of truth, attach your monitor to the GPU and your keyboard, then plug the PSU into the wall and flip the PSU’s rocker switch to “I” (on). Press the case power button. The system should spring to life: fans spinning, hopefully a POST (power-on self test) beep or directly showing the BIOS logo on screen. If it doesn’t power on, turn off and re-check cables (especially the front panel power switch header and PSU connections). If it powers on but no display, make sure the monitor is on the GPU’s output (not the motherboard’s video port, since the 13400F has no iGPU). Also check RAM seating if there’s no POST.
15. BIOS Settings: Once you get into the BIOS (tap the Delete key during boot typically), ensure the RAM is running at its XMP profile (enable XMP for DDR4-3200 to get out of default 2133 MT/s). Also check that your storage is recognized. You can set the boot order or just proceed to booting installation media.
16. Install Your OS: Insert a USB drive with Windows 11 (or Linux, etc.) and install the operating system. Once in Windows, install the latest GPU drivers (from AMD’s site for the RX 7600), the motherboard chipset drivers, and any other device drivers. With that, you’re all set to start gaming!
This entry-level PC should now be running smoothly. You’ll be able to enjoy games like Cyberpunk 2077 at 1080p on high settings, or lighter games like CS:GO, Rocket League, Fortnite at well over 100 fps. And thanks to the balanced CPU/GPU combo, neither component will bottleneck the other significantly, a true testament to getting the most gaming performance per dollar.
Mid-Range Gaming PC Build ($1,500 , $2,000)
Stepping up to the mid-range, we’re aiming for a PC that shines at 1440p high-refresh gaming and is competent at 4K as well. With this budget, we can afford newer technologies like DDR5, a more powerful GPU, and extras such as an AIO cooler or a stylish case. This system will also handle VR and content creation tasks much better than the entry build.What to Expect: Flawless 1440p gaming at ultra settings, often 100 fps depending on the title, and very solid 4K performance (60 fps at high settings in most games). Also streaming and multitasking while gaming will be smoother, thanks to a stronger CPU and more RAM. This build is also more “future-proof”, it has more headroom for upcoming games.
Recommended Components (Mid-Range)
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X (8 cores, 16 threads, up to 5.4 GHz boost), A powerful processor that offers an excellent balance for gaming and productivity. Its 8 Zen 4 cores provide plenty of multithreaded muscle, and it excels in gaming. Importantly, it’s on the AM5 platform, which means you have an upgrade path to future Ryzen CPUs without changing your motherboard or RAM . (Approx. $300) Alternate: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D ($450), If gaming is absolutely the priority, the 7800X3D’s extra cache makes it one of the fastest gaming CPUs on the market, beating even many 12-16 core CPUs in games. It costs more, though, and runs a bit lower clocks for non-gaming tasks. Another option in this price bracket is the Intel Core i5-13600K (14-core hybrid, $320) which offers great performance as well , but we’re leaning AMD here for platform longevity and cooler operation (Zen 4 is quite efficient).
• GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12GB, This GPU can crush 1440p gaming. It’s significantly more powerful than the RTX 4070 and competes closely with AMD’s RX 7900 XT. With 12GB GDDR6X, it handles high-resolution textures well. The RTX 4070 Ti excels at 1440p high refresh and is very capable at 4K gaming too (often 80fps in many games at high settings). Additionally, you get Nvidia’s features: DLSS 3 frame generation can dramatically boost frame rates in supported games, and its ray tracing performance is strong. (Approx. $800) Alternate: AMD Radeon RX 7800 XT 16GB ($500) or Radeon RX 7900 XT 20GB ($800), These are AMD’s mid/high cards. The 7800 XT offers tremendous value, often trading blows with the RTX 4070 (non-Ti) and even approaching 4070 Ti in some titles. At 1440p, it’s a monster for the price, sometimes within 5-10% of the 4070 in performance. The 7900 XT is more directly comparable to the 4070 Ti and tends to win in raw rasterized performance, especially given its extra 8GB of VRAM, though without DLSS/Frame Generation it relies on raw horsepower. If you favor longevity and higher VRAM, the 7900 XT is a great pick in this budget. If you favor ray tracing and DLSS, stick with the 4070 Ti. (Either choice will do great; we’ll proceed assuming the 4070 Ti for this build, as an example.)
• Motherboard: MSI B650 Tomahawk WiFi (AM5), A solid B650 chipset ATX board for the Ryzen 7. It supports DDR5, has robust power delivery (more than enough for an 8-core or even 16-core upgrade later), built-in Wi-Fi 6, and multiple M.2 slots (often 3 on these boards). B650 gives you all the essentials without the higher cost of X670. (Approx. $200) Features: This board will have PCIe 5.0 support at least on one M.2 slot for future SSDs, plenty of USB (including USB-C), and good audio. We don’t need X670 because we’re not running extreme multi-GPU or tons of expansion cards , a mid-range board strikes the best value-performance here.
• RAM: 32 GB (216 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 (EXPO or XMP kit) , We’re going with 32GB to comfortably handle any current and upcoming games, and to allow background applications with no worries. DDR5-6000 is a sweet spot for Ryzen 7000 CPUs, as it matches well with the Infinity Fabric (often the EXPO DDR5-6000 CL30 kits perform excellently on AM5). This ensures optimal performance. (Approx. $120,$150 for a quality 32GB kit)
• SSD: 1 TB NVMe SSD (PCIe 4.0) 2 TB HDD, For example, a Lexar NM790 1TB NVMe for boot/game drive and a secondary 2TB 7200rpm hard drive for mass storage (if you have lots of media or less frequently played games). The Lexar NM790 is a fast Gen4 drive (7400 MB/s reads) at a great price. Using a combo of SSD HDD gives you speed where needed and space where needed. If you prefer all solid-state, you could instead get a 2TB NVMe and skip the HDD (that might add $80). (Approx. $70 for 1TB NVMe, $50,$60 for 2TB HDD)
• PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G5 850W 80 Gold , An 850W Gold-rated modular PSU provides plenty of clean power for this system, even if upgraded to a higher GPU or CPU in the future. The RTX 4070 Ti has a recommended PSU of around 700W, so 850W gives headroom. This unit also has the necessary 12VHPWR cable (or adapter) for the GPU if needed. (Approx. $130) Alternate: If sticking with a mid-range GPU like 7800 XT, a quality 750W would suffice, but 850W covers even a possible upgrade to an RTX 4080/4090 or RX 7900 XTX later.
• Case: Lian Li Lancool 216 (Mid-Tower), A high-airflow mid-tower with two 160mm front fans and one rear 140mm, great cable management, and room for large GPUs and AIOs. It has a tempered glass side panel to show off your build. (Approx. $100) Any comparable mid-tower from Fractal, Phanteks, Cooler Master, etc. with good airflow (mesh panels) would do. At this budget, you can choose a case that’s both functional and visually appealing since we have some room.
• CPU Cooler: 240mm or 360mm AIO Liquid Cooler (e.g., Corsair iCUE H100i 240mm), To keep the Ryzen 7 7700X nice and cool, an AIO is a great choice. The 7700X has a 105W TDP and can boost quite high; while a decent air cooler could handle it, an AIO will keep temperatures lower and noise down during long gaming sessions. Plus, it adds to the aesthetic with RGB if that’s your thing. (Approx. $100,$150). Alternate: A high-end air cooler like the Noctua NH-D15 or be quiet! Dark Rock 4 is another excellent (and often cheaper) choice if you prefer air cooling. Those can easily cool an 8-core CPU quietly. It mostly comes down to case compatibility and aesthetic preference here.
This mid-range build totals around $1,600,$1,800, depending on the GPU choice and extras. It is a powerful, well-rounded machine ready for modern gaming. Let’s assemble it.
Step-by-Step Assembly (Mid-Range PC)
Building this is similar to the entry-level, with a few additional considerations (like mounting an AIO cooler). I’ll highlight the differences and important steps:
1. Prepare Case and Motherboard: Open up your Lian Li (remove panels, etc.). Install the motherboard standoffs as needed for ATX if not pre-installed. This case has an integrated I/O shield, but if our MSI B650 board has a separate shield, snap it into the case. Place the MSI B650 motherboard on its box and proceed to CPU installation.
2. Install CPU: Lift the AM5 socket lever and carefully place the Ryzen 7 7700X (align the golden triangle on the CPU with the triangle marker on the socket). Close the lever to secure the CPU. (If you had chosen Intel here instead, you’d follow the LGA1700 process similarly.)
3. Install M.2 SSD(s): Before cooler installation (which might block access), install your NVMe SSD in the top M.2 slot (which on B650 is likely CPU-connected for full speed). Same method as earlier: insert at angle, screw it down. If you have a second M.2 SSD, you can install it in the secondary slot now too.
4. Mount the Motherboard in Case: Align and screw down the board onto the standoffs, ensuring the rear ports fit through the I/O opening. Use all necessary screws to secure it.
5. Install PSU: Mount the 850W PSU in the bottom of the case (fan down if vented). Being modular, attach cables: 24-pin ATX, 8-pin EPS (in fact this board might have an 84 pin for CPU, connect both if present for stability in overclocking, though the 8 alone is often enough for an 8-core), and PCIe cables. Also the new 12-pin GPU cable if your PSU has one (for the 4070 Ti).
6. Place & Connect PSU Cables: Route the 24-pin cable to the motherboard’s 24-pin connector and plug it in firmly. Connect the 8-pin (and additional 4-pin if applicable) CPU power cable to the top of the motherboard. These cases often have cutouts to route cables behind for a cleaner build; use those grommets to keep cables tidy.
7. Install CPU Cooler (240/360mm AIO): This is a key difference from the entry build. Plan your radiator mounting: The Lancool 216 can mount a 360mm radiator in front or 240/280mm up top. Let’s say we have a 240mm AIO and put it in the top of the case as exhaust. First, attach the CPU cooling block to the CPU: follow the AIO’s instructions for AM5 mounting (likely install the standoff posts onto the motherboard’s CPU socket brackets, apply thermal paste on CPU, then set the pump/block and screw it down evenly). The AIO’s radiator gets attached to the case , position it so the two attached fans will push air out the top. Screw the radiator in place with the fans. Connect the pump’s power lead to the CPU_FAN or dedicated PUMP header (depends on board; some have CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT/pump , consult manual, but ensure the pump has power). Also connect the radiator fan cables to CPU_FAN (if pump is on a PUMP header) or to a splitter/CHA_FAN headers. Essentially, make sure your cooler’s fans and pump are powered and recognized. If you opted for an air cooler instead: install the backplate (if required), thermal paste, then mount the heatsink and fan(s) according to its instructions. Plug its fan into CPU_FAN header.
8. Install RAM: Insert your 216GB DDR5 sticks into the correct dual-channel slots (usually slots A2 and B2 on most boards, check manual). Ensure they click in fully.
9. Install GPU: Remove the necessary PCIe slot covers (for a 4070 Ti, which is a 2.5-slot card, remove two adjacent covers where the top PCIe slot alignment is). Insert the RTX 4070 Ti into the top PCIe x16 slot until it clicks. Screw it to the case’s expansion bracket. Now connect the GPU power: the 4070 Ti likely uses the 12VHPWR 12-pin connector. Connect the PSU’s 12-pin cable (or the 28-pin to 12-pin adapter if using one) firmly into the GPU. Ensure it’s fully seated , these new connectors sometimes require a good push until you hear/feel a click.
10. Front Panel & Fan Connections: Connect the case’s front panel cables (power/reset/LEDs just like before onto the JFP1 header). This MSI board has an onboard LED EZ Debug, if something’s wrong it will help, but anyway. Also connect the front USB 3.0 cable to the USB3 header, front USB-C cable to the USB-C header, and HD Audio cable to the audio header, same as entry steps. The Lancool’s front fans, since they are 160mm, likely connect to system fan headers or a fan hub; connect them to SYS_FAN1/2 headers (and the rear 140mm to another). You might also have a RGB controller cable to plug in if the fans have RGB; attach that to the ARGB header if applicable.
11. Cable Management: Behind the motherboard tray, use the provided velcro straps or zip ties to neatly bundle cables. Ensure no cables are pressing against side panels excessively. Good cable management not only looks nice through the glass but also helps airflow inside.
12. Power On and BIOS: Do a test boot. Plug in, switch on PSU, hit power. The fans and pump should start, and you should see a BIOS POST. If you don’t get a display, check the debug LEDs on the MSI board , common issues could be RAM not fully seated (LED for RAM), or a cable loose. Once in BIOS, enable XMP/EXPO for the DDR5-6000 memory. Also, check that the BIOS sees your NVMe SSD. Since this board is new, it likely ships with UEFI set to install Windows 11 easily.
13. Install OS and Drivers: Boot from your Windows 11 USB installer, install to the NVMe SSD. After installation, get the latest GPU driver (Nvidia GeForce driver for the 4070 Ti). Install chipset drivers from AMD for B650, and other utilities as needed.
14. Tuning and Testing: With everything installed, you can use a stress test or game benchmark to ensure temperatures are good. The Ryzen 7700X might idle relatively high (Zen 4 often idles at 50C by design and boosts aggressively), but under full gaming load with the 240mm AIO, expect maybe 70C or so , well within safe range. The RTX 4070 Ti will run cool (they are efficient), around 60-70C in gaming typically. If you see anything abnormal (like 90C on CPU under moderate load), double-check cooler mounting and fan curves.
This mid-range PC is now ready to rock. Enjoy gaming at 1440p ultra, you’ll easily hit high refresh rates in games like Rainbow Six Siege or Overwatch 2. Even demanding games (Red Dead Redemption 2, Forza Horizon 5) can be run at 1440p max or 4K high with smooth results. Ray tracing is on the table now for many games thanks to the RTX 4070 Ti’s capability, and DLSS 3 can push frame rates even higher in supported titles. You also have 32GB RAM, so feel free to stream or have dozens of Chrome tabs open while gaming, this rig can handle it.
High-End Gaming PC Build ($3,000)
Now for the no-holds-barred build. With a $3K budget, we can afford the best of the best: an elite GPU, top-tier CPU, ample fast storage, and exotic cooling. This is the kind of PC that laughs at Ultra settings in 4K and is prepared for high-resolution VR or multi-monitor 4K gaming. It’s also a showcase build, expect a flashy case, lots of RGB (if you like), and premium components throughout.What to Expect: Simply put, exceptional performance in all areas. 4K gaming at 100 fps in many games (with the help of DLSS or FSR as needed), minimum frame rates that stay very high even in the most demanding scenes, and the ability to handle any peripheral task (streaming, recording, rendering) concurrently. This machine should also be relatively quiet and cool given the high-end cooling and case, unless pushing it to the absolute max.
Recommended Components (High-End)
• CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K (24 cores: 8 P-cores 16 E-cores, up to 6.0 GHz), Intel’s flagship gaming CPU as of late 2023. It offers incredible performance in both single-thread (up to 6 GHz boost) and multi-thread (32 threads chewing through workloads). With this chip, you can game, stream, render a video, and run background tasks all at once without breaking a sweat. It is power-hungry and runs hot under full load (253W PL2 and it can hit 100C without robust cooling), so it demands a high-end cooler (we’ll get to that). Alternatively, for a pure gaming-focused high-end build, AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D or a hypothetical Ryzen 9 X3D could be chosen; those run cooler and often slightly outperform the 14900K in gaming , but they give up a lot of multicore performance (only 8 cores). Given our budget, we can afford the i9 and adequate cooling to have top gaming performance and top productivity performance. (Approx. $580)
• GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4090 24GB, The undisputed king of GPUs. The RTX 4090 delivers around 70,100% better performance than an RTX 4080, especially at 4K and with ray tracing, and it comes with a massive 24GB VRAM which is plenty for even the most extreme modded games or creative workloads. It enables 4K gaming at high refresh rates, e.g., 4K @ 120Hz in many games is achievable with this card, particularly with DLSS 3. Ray tracing performance is best-in-class; titles like Cyberpunk 2077 with path tracing can actually run acceptably with this card (especially using DLSS Frame Generation). At $1600, it’s extremely expensive, but within a $3000 budget, this is where a big chunk of money goes, and it’s worth it if you want the absolute top-tier performance. (Approx. $1600) Alternate: Nvidia RTX 4080 16GB ($1200) or AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24GB ($1000) , If you wanted to save some money while still getting high-end performance, these are options. The 7900 XTX gets you close to 4090 performance in raster for much less money, but lags in ray tracing. The 4080 has excellent efficiency and ray tracing, but is about 25,30% slower than the 4090. However, in a no-compromise build we assume the 4090. It’s simply in a league of its own, often 30% faster than the next-best card in 4K gaming. If you’re spending this much, you likely want that extra performance margin.
• Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Hero (LGA1700, Z790 chipset) , A high-end Z790 board to support the i9-14900K. This board has top-tier VRM (to handle the 14900K’s power draw and overclocking headroom), lots of USB ports (including Thunderbolt 4/USB4), multiple M.2 slots (often 4 or more, with heatsinks), excellent audio, and plenty of bells and whistles (debug LED, BIOS flashback, dual LAN/Wi-Fi 6E, etc.). In this budget range, the motherboard is partly about features and partly about ensuring absolute stability when pushing the limits. (Approx. $600) Alternate: MSI MEG or Gigabyte AORUS Z790 boards in the $400,$500 range are also great. Even a solid mid-range Z790 like a TUF Gaming would run the i9 fine at stock, but the high-end boards offer more robust power delivery and features fitting a premium build. Given we’re going all-out, the Hero or similar fits the bill.
• RAM: 64 GB (232 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30, Since this system might be used for more than just gaming (and because we can), we’ll equip 64GB of fast DDR5. For strictly gaming, 32GB is plenty, but having 64GB ensures absolutely nothing will slow this machine down due to memory. It’s useful for heavy multitasking, running VMs, or editing 4K video, etc. We’ll use a 232 kit to keep it to two DIMMs (for best stability and maintaining high frequency). DDR5-6000 CL30 (or CL32) kits in 232GB are a bit pricey, but they exist and will allow the i9 to stretch its legs. (Approx. $300) Alternate: 32GB (216) would be fine for gaming, but hey, we have budget. If you do stick to 32GB, you could opt for even faster kit (e.g., DDR5-6400 CL32) as Z790 Intel’s IMC can handle higher speeds more easily than AMD.
• Storage: 2 2 TB NVMe SSD (PCIe 4.0 or 5.0), We’ll drop mechanical drives entirely here and go all solid-state. For instance, a pair of Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe SSDs , one as the boot drive for OS and main games, another for additional games and media. Each 2TB is extremely fast (the 990 Pro can do 7450 MB/s reads, 6900 MB/s writes) and 2TB gives ample space for a large library before needing any HDD. If you have specific needs (like scratch disk for editing, etc.), you could even consider a PCIe 5.0 SSD (e.g., Corsair MP700) for bragging rights, but as mentioned, it won’t vastly improve game load times. Still, this build can afford it. We might also include a large SATA SSD (like 4TB) if more storage is needed for bulk data, but let’s assume 4TB of NVMe total is enough for now. (Approx. $200,$250 each for 2TB high-end NVMe, so $500 total here)
• PSU: Seasonic PRIME TX-1000 (1000W 80 Titanium, ATX 3.0), A top-of-the-line PSU to ensure rock-solid power delivery. 1000W covers the power draw of an i9-14900K (250W) RTX 4090 (450W) plus headroom . This unit is ATX 3.0 and comes with the native 12VHPWR cable for the 4090. Titanium efficiency keeps it very cool and efficient even at high loads. (Approx. $300). The PSU is often an overlooked component, but for this build we want something that will last and handle any transients. Nvidia recommends 850W min for 4090; we go 1000W to be safe, especially with an OC-capable i9 in the mix.
• Case: Corsair 5000D Airflow (Black), A full-tower case with excellent airflow and lots of room for radiators and large GPUs. The 5000D has a clean look with a mesh front for airflow and comes with a couple of 120mm fans (we’ll add more). It supports up to 360mm radiator in front or top, and has plenty of cable management space. In a build this high-end, you could also consider something flashy like the Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL (great for custom water cooling showcase) or other full-tower. The main thing is to ensure it fits the RTX 4090 (which is a very long card) and whatever cooling we use. (Approx. $170)
• CPU Cooler: Custom Liquid Cooling Loop, OR, 360mm AIO. Given the i9-14900K’s heat output, a 360mm AIO is recommended at minimum. For example, the Lian Li Galahad II Trinity 360 AIO is a great cooler with a fancy LCD display and strong cooling. (Approx. $180). However, since this is an ultimate build, one might opt for a custom open-loop cooling solution, putting both the CPU and GPU under water with hardline tubing, etc. That would significantly add to cost (easily $500 for parts) and complexity, and is perhaps beyond the scope of this guide. So, sticking to an AIO for simplicity: the 360mm radiator will be mounted likely at the top of the 5000D case (which has space for it). This will handle the 14900K at full tilt , expect around 90C under all-core AVX loads (which is normal for this CPU), and much lower temps in gaming (since games won’t load all cores fully).
• Additional Cooling/Fans: We’ll populate the case with quality 140mm fans for airflow. Perhaps 3140mm be quiet! Silent Wings or Noctua NF-A14 for intake and 3120mm on the AIO exhaust, etc. Budget perhaps another $100 for extra case fans to maximize airflow.
This configuration comes out around $3,500 , $4,000. Yes, it’s a beast , you can trim some fat (64GB RAM to 32GB, or maybe 4090 to 4080) to reduce cost, but as specced, it’s aiming for the ultimate. Now, to build it:
Step-by-Step Assembly (High-End PC)
Building a high-end PC is fundamentally the same as before, just with more careful planning for things like radiator placement, GPU size, and cable management with so many components. Here we’ll assume an AIO cooler, not a fully custom loop (that would have many more steps for pumps, reservoirs, etc.). Let’s proceed:
1. Case Setup: The Corsair 5000D is quite spacious. Remove all panels. This case may have some modular brackets for SSDs or radiator mounting, detach what you need to for easier building. Ensure the motherboard standoffs are set for ATX (they should be). It has a pre-installed rear fan; we’ll also mount two 140mm intake fans at the front panel (replacing any smaller ones included) for better airflow.
2. Motherboard Prep: Take the ASUS Z790 board and open the LGA1700 socket. Carefully place the Core i9-14900K CPU in and lock it down with the lever (remember the plastic cover will pop off). Given how high-end this board is, it likely has an integrated I/O shield, if not, insert the shield into the case as earlier.
3. M.2 and RAM Installation: Install the two NVMe SSDs into the M.2 slots. High-end boards often have heatsinks, unscrew the heatsink, place the SSD, screw it in, then put the heatsink back on. If the drives have their own heatsinks that conflict, decide whether to use the board’s or the drive’s (the board’s are usually designed to match aesthetics). Install the 64GB (232) DDR5 kit in the correct slots (often A2/B2). This board might support quad-channel but we stick to 2 sticks.
4. Mount Motherboard in Case: With I/O shield aligned, screw the motherboard into the case standoffs. A full tower has plenty of room , ensure all screws (usually 9 for ATX) are in.
5. Install Power Supply: Mount the 1000W Seasonic PSU in the bottom PSU shroud area. This case has a PSU shroud cover, slide the PSU in from the side or back as design allows. Screw it in. Before that, plug in the cables: definitely the 24-pin ATX, two EPS cables (this board likely has 88 pin CPU power to fully feed an overclocked i9), the 12VHPWR for the GPU, and a number of SATA power cables for any accessories (like if we have LED/fan controllers). Route the cables through the back.
6. Plan & Install the CPU Cooler (AIO 360): We have a 360mm AIO. The 5000D can mount a 360 either in front or top (or side). We’ll mount it at the top as exhaust to keep the GPU supplied with cool air from front intake. Screw the three fans to the radiator (orientation: pushing air out of the case). Mount the radiator to the top inside of the case with the included screws. It might be a tight fit with the motherboard and tall RAM, but the 5000D should handle a 360mm. Next, mount the AIO pump/block on the CPU. Apply thermal paste (if not pre-applied), the i9 die is large, a nice pea or X shape is fine. Use the LGA1700 standoffs and mounting brackets provided, tighten the pump block evenly onto the CPU. Plug the pump’s cable into the CPU_FAN or AIO_PUMP header (Asus boards often have a dedicated AIO_PUMP header that runs 100% by default, ideal for pump). Plug the radiator fans into either the CPU_FAN header (via splitter) or a CHA_FAN header (some AIOs come with a controller). In BIOS, we’ll set a smart curve or constant speeds as needed.
7. Install GPU Support (if needed) and GPU: The RTX 4090 is heavy (2 kg) and long. Many high-end cases come with a GPU support bracket or you might use a third-party support to prevent sag. The 5000D doesn’t include one by default, but for a card like this, consider using the little stick-on GPU support that might have come with the GPU or buy a brace. Remove the necessary 3-4 slot covers for the 4090 (it’s a 3.5-slot width!). It likely occupies up to 4 slots. Carefully insert the RTX 4090 into the top PCIe slot , you might need to rearrange some cables because the card is so large. Screw it in with all the screws (the bracket has 3 or 4 screw positions). Attach the GPU support bracket if you have one (some 4090s include a support that screws to the case or a little jack that props up the far end of the card). Now, connect the 12VHPWR 124 pin cable from the PSU to the GPU. Make absolutely sure it clicks in fully , these connectors require firm insertion and should not be at an angle. We’ll also ensure not to bend the cable too sharply near the connector, to avoid the known issues. The Seasonic PSU’s cable should be of high quality, mitigating risk.
8. Front Panel & Misc Connections: Connect the front panel headers (power button, reset, LEDs) to the motherboard’s front panel pins. The Asus board likely has a Q-Connector block to make this easier , use it if provided (it’s a small block you plug the case wires into, then plug the block onto the pins). Connect the front USB 3.0 and USB-C cables to their headers on the board (this board may have two USB3 headers and one USB-C). Connect front audio. Also, this case has a fan/LED hub for its built-in fans possibly; if so, connect its power (SATA) and its PWM control cable to a motherboard header.
9. Additional Fans: We installed 2 front intake 140mm fans , connect those to case fan headers (CHA_FAN1/2 etc.) or to a fan hub. Connect the rear exhaust fan as well. We’ll want a balanced airflow: likely 3 intake (2 front maybe 1 bottom or side if you choose to add) and 3 exhaust (3 on the AIO rad). With this, positive pressure is slightly in favor which is good for dust. Ensure all fan cables are managed.
10. Double Check Wiring: At this stage, triple-check critical connections: 24-pin ATX, both 8-pin CPU power connectors (the Hero board definitely has 88 pins, you need to populate both for stable high loads), GPU power, pump power, fans, and front panel. Also check that no wires are near fan blades (tie them back).
11. First Power On: Connect monitor to the 4090 (DisplayPort/HDMI) and keyboard, etc. Power on the PSU and hit the case Power button. The system should start up, the Asus board has debug LEDs to indicate the progress (CPU, DRAM, VGA, BOOT). First boot might take a bit as it trains memory. If something is amiss (no boot), watch the LEDs, if it stops at DRAM, maybe the RAM isn’t seated or needs a different slot. If at VGA, maybe the GPU power isn’t fully connected. Given quality parts, likely it boots to BIOS fine. Enter BIOS setup.
12. BIOS Setup: Enable XMP for the DDR5-6000 memory. Since we have an i9, also check CPU temps in BIOS , should be fine with pump running (maybe 30-40C idle). We might also adjust fan curves: maybe set case fans to ramp up based on GPU temperature sensor (some boards let you link to GPU temp). But you can fine-tune later in software too.
13. OS Installation: Boot from your Windows 11 installer USB. Install onto the first NVMe (2TB). After OS install, go through drivers:
•Install the latest Nvidia GeForce driver for 4090.
•Chipset drivers for Z790 (Intel INF drivers).
•Intel ME drivers (if needed).
•Install the motherboard’s LAN and Wi-Fi drivers if Windows didn’t.
•Any utility for the board (Asus Armoury Crate can auto-install stuff, albeit somewhat annoyingly).
•If your AIO has software (like Lian Li’s LCD display software or Corsair iCUE if you used Corsair cooler/fans), install those to control RGB, etc.
•NVMe SSD firmware if applicable (Samsung Magician can update firmware).
•Basically get everything up to date.
14. Post-Build Optimization: Because this is high-end, you might want to undervolt or tune that i9 for efficiency, by default the 14900K will try to max turbo at 253W. Undervolting or using an AI Optimizer in BIOS can reduce temps by a lot while only slightly reducing multi-core performance. But that’s optional tweaking. The 4090 might also be power-limited to 450W, you could actually undervolt it to improve efficiency too (common for 4090, e.g., lock at 0.9V for 5-10% fps loss but 20% less power). These are advanced tweaks outside scope but something to consider for thermals and noise optimization in such a beast build.
This high-end build will deliver an amazing experience. To give some concrete numbers: in Cyberpunk 2077 at 4K with RT Overdrive (full path tracing), this PC with DLSS 3 can achieve 80 fps where lesser cards would crawl. In standard rasterized games, you’ll often be CPU-bound even at 1440p, frame rates well above 200 fps in competitive games. The 409014900K combo currently tops most gaming benchmark charts. And with 64GB RAM and 4TB of fast storage, you can multitask and store tons of games/data.
Finally, enjoy the process! Building such a high-end PC is not just about the end result but the experience of putting together a cutting-edge machine. Take pride in routing every cable perfectly and making it look as great as it runs.
Final Thoughts
No matter your budget , be it under $1000 or over $3000 , building a PC in 2025 is about balancing performance with value and ensuring compatibility of the latest components. We’ve compared the key parts (CPUs, GPUs, etc.) and provided examples that leverage current-gen hardware for maximum gaming performance at each price point.A few parting tips:
•Reputable Sources & Shopping: When you’re ready to purchase, use reliable retailers and cross-check prices. Websites like PCPartPicker can help ensure compatibility and find deals. Manufacturer websites provide detailed specs (we cited many such specs above) , always double-check those if you’re unsure (for example, whether a motherboard BIOS supports a newer CPU, or the exact dimensions of a GPU for case fitment).
•Building Process: As we detailed in the how-to sections, take your time with assembly. Use the manuals , even experienced builders refer to motherboard manuals for front panel pin diagrams or BIOS shortcuts. If something doesn’t fit, don’t force it; double-check orientation and compatibility.
•Upgrades: The beauty of a custom PC is that you can upgrade individual parts later. All the builds above have upgrade paths (the entry and mid on AM5/LGA1700 can take newer CPUs or GPUs; the high-end frankly won’t need an upgrade for years, except maybe adding more storage). Keep your PSU capacity in mind if you plan a much more power-hungry GPU upgrade down the line.
•Performance Tuning: After building, spend some time tweaking settings , enable Resizable BAR (SAM) in BIOS, update to the latest GPU drivers, consider slight CPU undervolts to reduce heat (especially on Intel), and use in-game benchmarks or tools like 3DMark to verify your system is performing as expected for the hardware.
Building your own gaming PC is a rewarding experience both for the knowledge gained and the performance you get. Enjoy your new custom rig, and game on! Each of these builds should serve you well for years, and because you built it yourself, you know exactly what’s inside and how to fix or upgrade it whenever the next shiny hardware catches your eye.
Happy building in 2025!